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Roaring Shanghai keeps its mystique

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Winnie Chung

The name Ye Shanghai (Shanghai at night) conjures up nostalgic images of dimly lit Chinese nightclubs of the 1930s and 40s, with soprano songbirds belting out tunes about heartbreak.

But Ye Shanghai in Pacific Place is neither nostalgic nor dim. And despite what it said on the business card, there were no heartbroken songbirds either - for the moment, anyway (although there was a rather irritating tape of tunes that included You Light up My Life).

The lack of 'live entertainment' was not much of a loss since I had always found it distracting if one was planning a cosy meal with friends.

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It had not deterred many diners either because the restaurant was full for the first seating - although we had booked two days in advance - and almost full for the second.

The restaurant is neatly laid out because the room's long rectangular shape does not leave much leeway for more maximised placing of the tables other than the existing four long rows: the effect is a little like being in a posh boarding school canteen.

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The view looks out on to Queen's Road Central and United Centre, not exactly the most romantic sight in Hong Kong. The yellow glare from the bright streetlamps that spill into the restaurant is unpleasant.

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