German deli hits the spot

You do not have to be German or a schnitzel aficionado to get the most out of Delicatessen Corner - but it helps. One of Hong Kong's few German restaurants, it must be hitting the spot, as the place is popular with German expatriates.

What Delicatessen Corner lacks in atmosphere, it makes up for with its food. An attempt has been made to create the feel of a German tavern with wood-panelled walls and wooden chairs and tables. It is in the basement of the Holiday Inn, which means there are no windows. The ceiling is low and the lighting dim, but ultimately there's no mistaking it for anything other than a hotel restaurant.

It is the little touches that let it down, such as the televisions mounted in the corners of the restaurant. Presumably these are provided for the benefit of those dining solo, and as Delicatessen Corner is on Tsim Sha Tsui's main street, there are a number of tourists and business people eating alone. Although the televisions are turned on, the sound has been cut, which makes it difficult to see their entertainment value.

The far end of the restaurant overlooks the kitchen. It is always reassuring to see chefs going about their business, however, this kitchen is not of the aesthetic variety. That is not to suggest it doesn't look hygienic, far from it, simply that the stainless-steel counters dividing the cooking and consumption areas are not particularly attractive.

But moving on to what Delicatessen Corner does best - the food. For those unfamiliar with German cuisine, there is a strong emphasis on meat - particularly sausages and schnitzel (meat cutlets) - cheese and potatoes.

There are two menus - one in English, the other in German, which bears testament to the restaurant's success among German expatriates.

It is schnitzel season at Delicatessen Corner at the moment and there are eight to choose from. Other specialties include pork knuckle ($98) and calf's liver 'Berlin' ($110). Sausages are central to German cuisine and more than half a dozen are on offer, including a foot-long Frankfurter ($92) and cheese krainer sausages ($88), which are made of beef and cheese.