The Stonegrill offers a hands-on approach to dining - although you would be well advised not to touch the 400-degree Celsius volcanic rock that is the centrepiece of the Stonegrill experience. Eating over a blazing hot rock may seem more suited to Alpine climates than Hong Kong, but it seems surprisingly popular, even in mid-summer. The answer perhaps lies in the sociable nature of the dining experience. Anyone who enjoys tending to meats sizzling over a barbecue will love The Stonegrill. It offers all the fun of grilling without any of the mess and, unlike a fondue, there is no danger of losing your tasty morsels in a communal vat. Most of the dishes are served on a rectangular plate, two-thirds of which is dominated by a square of volcanic rock. The rock - imported from Australia - is pre-heated in an oven before being brought to the table with the requested flesh sizzling on top. As we entered the two-floor restaurant, we were greeted by the wonderful aroma of roasted meat. An unusually high ceiling downstairs gives an air of extravagance. The decor is earthy and modern: one wall is covered with cross-sections of tree trunks, the other walls have geometric designs in muted orange, brown and green. We were shown to the bar while our table was prepared. Rather than bottles of wines and spirits, lime cordial and Perrier line the shelves above the bar - The Stonegrill does not yet have a liquor licence. Many might consider this good news as diners are invited to bring their own wine and there is no charge for corkage. There is a wine bar opposite the restaurant should you forget to bring your favourite plonk. We were shown to our table in the dining area upstairs where the sophisticated/earthy look continued. The muted wall colours are offset by white tablecloths and extremely comfortable chairs - it is the kind of atmosphere that would be difficult not to sink into and relax. A first glance at the menu may be off-putting, particularly for the person picking up the tab. Main courses range from $150 to $280. However, each main dish includes soup of the day, salad and tea or coffee. The portobello mushrooms ($88) which we ordered as starters were divine. The waiter gave us a few tips on how to approach our meal - 'don't touch the rock, it's very hot' - and he cautioned us not to leave the mushrooms on the grill too long as they will dry out. He sliced a few strips from the huge Italian mushroom and dipped them in the garlic sauce. It was easily one of the most heavenly mushrooms we had tasted - succulent and full of flavour. The mushrooms were the size of saucers and, ordered as a main course, they should easily satisfy most vegetarians. Other than the mushrooms, the menu is not very veggie-friendly - this is definitely meat-lovers' terrain. The soup of the day was lobster - a creamy concoction with a sharp bite, improved with a little black pepper. The service was impeccable and despite the restaurant being packed we were well attended to; no sooner had we finished our soup than we were presented with a green salad. It was fresh and crispy but otherwise unimpressive. The New Zealand tenderloin ($148) - an eight-ounce chunk of meat - arrived hissing on the stonegrill, and was accompanied by vegetables. Although the meat was easily sliced, it took a considerable amount of time to cook. But this is all part of the experience and it was enjoyable to have a leisurely chat while tending to the rock. The Pacific king prawns ($178) were equally impressive. The three huge prawns were fresh and succulent, and came with a dipping sauce as well as green beans, potatoes and carrots. The coffee was served in funky stainless-steel cups, carefully designed to ensure the handle does not absorb the heat from the cup. A small design feature perhaps, but in a restaurant where you are eating off 400-degree Celsius plates, you appreciate all efforts to avoid being burned. The Stonegrill is not the kind of place you make a regular haunt, but as a one-off, fun eatery it is hard to beat. Definitely recommended. The Stonegrill, G/F 1 Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay, Tel: 2504 3333, Open: Monday-Friday 12.30pm-3pm, 6.30pm-midnight, Saturday and Sunday 12.30pm-3pm, 6pm-midnight
