AS THE temperature drops, families and friends are gathering round the warming hotpot. Although many Hongkongers might think of hotpot only as simple plates of sliced seafood, meats and vegetables to be poached in a clear broth, restaurants are now serving soup bases, fancy dishes and dipping sauces that take their influence from other Chinese cuisines.
The idea of cooking in soup goes back a long way in northern China, probably originating in Mongolia. This spread south during the Tang dynasty (618-906 AD). Part of its appeal is huddling around the pot with friends or relatives, sharing the food. At the end of the meal, the broth can be slurped as a tasty soup.
Locally, the Cantonese style - shacha - is the most popular form of hotpot, generally characterised by a clear soup base and a satay dipping sauce. Kowloon City is a favourite haunt for shacha. Two of the best-known restaurants are Tung Wing Seafood Hotpot and Fai Seafood Hotpot, both famous for their celebrity clientele and fresh selections.
However, other varieties of hotpot featuring spicier soup bases are growing in popularity, including the Taiwanese and Sichuan styles.
Fans of the Taiwanese hotpot swear by Lin Kee Hotpot, with outlets in Causeway Bay and Tsim Sha Tsui. They're also one of the best bargains in town, costing $79 for an all-you-can-eat hotpot buffet. After 9.30pm, the price drops to $69. And after 11pm, it's only $48. But if the idea of Lin Kee's dark red Taiwanese spicy broth - thickened with pork blood - is not for you, it also has less scorching soups, including one with Chinese herbs.
A good bet for the Sichuan style is the New FF Hotpot, which is known for its fiery chilli broths created from Sichuan peppercorns, chillies and secret ingredients.