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Suzanne Harrison

MAKEUP ARTIST Marie Rancoule-Vaucelle prefers brushes and adds just a hint of colour. Aaron Dunning, from Chanel, likes to highlight and brighten, and favours blending makeup with fingers rather than brushes.

But  although each artist has their own  preferences and differing techniques, the result is what it's all about.  Dunning's makeover subject was 23-year-old Judy Ngao Chor-mun. Rancoule-Vaucelle used Stephane Marais products to give Grace Tai Yin-jing, 35, a new look.

Ngao  has occasional oily skin problems in the T-zone. She favours green for the eyes and light makeup.  Tai  says she has combination skin and    usually wears only a touch of lipstick.

Aaron Dunning

Step 1 Start with a corrector for dark circles under the eyes. Dunning  applies a radiance booster as a foundation base. He applies a pink tone under the eyes to counteract yellowing and a flesh tone for the rest of the face.

Step 2 A highlighter around the eyes to catch the light. Dunning suggests using the fingers to dab this on. Highlighter is like a base under the blush, he says.

Step 3 He applies an SPF foundation, but only on certain areas. He uses a sponge to keep the skin fresh and natural.

Step 4 A yellow-gold eye shadow is said to bring out the eyes.  This lighter colour is applied first using a large eye shadow brush. It should be slightly transparent, like a watercolour, he says.

Step 5 For a night-time look, Dunning adds a lilac tone to the outside corner of the eye. He does this from the longer lash out, then back in to the crease to give the eyes depth.

Step 6 He  uses liquid eyeliner  on the lash-line to give the illusion of thicker lashes.

Step 7  A mascara designed to sculpt the lashes is particularly good  on women with shorter lashes.

Step 8 A lighter eye shadow is dabbed into the inside corners of the eye to catch the light. Because there's colour on the top of the lids, Dunning says there's no need to put eyeliner underneath the eye as  it will look too heavy.

Step 9 On the apple of the cheekbone, he applies a  peach tone with a large brush.

Step 10  Lipliner in a lighter shade than the lipstick is applied by smudging it into the lips. This gives lipstick something to hold onto  so it lasts longer and lips look fuller.

Step 11 A dab of lip gloss finishes it off.

Makeup Tips: 'If you're concerned about dark circles under the eye, avoid mascara on the lower lashes. For brows, use a comb. In the summer, don't use too much eye moisturiser,   or makeup will run in the heat. Remember that your face is three dimensional and you must take makeup back  to the hair line.'

Marie Rancoule-Vaucelle

Step 1 Applies a  base all over the face.

Step 2 A small amount of a beige tone foundation is applied with a sponge to create a summer makeup look that can be for day or night.

Step 3 Uses a synthetic brush to add concealer under the eyes and the inside corner of the eyes. 'The texture is light and it's easy to put just the right amount'.

Step 4 Applies a cream blush using a sponge. The colour is a soft, browny-red. 'This gives a healthy glow,' she says. Rancoule-Vaucelle applies blush in a tear-drop shape.

Step 5  Adds loose powder using a big brush  to fix  makeup to the skin.

Step 6 A small brush is used to   apply loose powder under the eye to fix the concealer and then   to dab powder on the  lid.

Step 7 A dark brown eyebrow pencil  that glides on the skin is  used to  extend Tai's brows slightly.  'This summer, it's all about blush and the eyebrows.'

Step 8  Purple eyeliner is applied,  not in a neat  line  but more as a base, which she  blends  with  a brush.

Step 9 A mauve eye shadow is blended over the top of the lids and a darker purple shadow is put under the eye line base.

Step 10 A light pressed powder -  half shimmer,   half matte - is dabbed under the brow line and a little  on the cheeks.

Step 11 She uses a white eyeliner on the inside of the line under the eye to make the eyes appear larger.

Step 12 Mixes two colours together to create a natural pink, but doesn't use lip liner because a gloss is applied afterwards. The gloss shouldn't be blended.

Step 13 Uses a mascara comb to  brush mascara  close to the lash line. She brushes the lashes down first and then a small amount underneath the lashes.

Makeup tips: 'Many women put on too much colour and try too hard with eyeshadow. If you want something simple, take one colour and apply that on your lids just near your lashes - and that's enough. Then blend it with upward movements.'

The verdict

Ngao: 'I thought the makeup was over done. He put too much powder on my face. The lilac eye shadow and pink blush made me look ghostly and sick. But he did a good job of evening out my skin tone and concealing flaws. I usually wear a bit of liquid foundation, concealer, blush, eyebrow powder, eyeliner, mascara and eye shadow. That sounds like a lot, but I only use a little  of each.'

Tai: 'I liked the result, except there was a bit too much blush. The foundation was good but a little heavy as I don't wear makeup  often. I particularly liked the eyes and I would have something like this done for a special occasion.'



Duelling brushes