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Andrew Sun

1/F The Luxe Manor

39 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui

Tel: 3763 8800

Open: 6.30am-10.30am, noon-2.30pm, 3pm-6pm, 6.30pm-11pm

Cuisine: Contemporary Italian that strives to be  as artistic as the paintings on the wall.

Price: Expect to pay at least $600 per person if you're going to have antipasto, primo and secondo courses.

Ambience: Like the boutique hotel, the theme is posh-surreal  with purple walls, white regency armchairs, and spot-lit artworks next to a  trompe l'oeil library painted on a wall.

Pros: Chef Roland Schuller  aims high and, more often than not, his inspired  interpretations give standard Italian dishes enough of a makeover to make your taste buds think it's something new.

Cons: It's a nice idea to serve  dips in laboratory beakers, but the sauces were too watery to cling  to the breadsticks. Plus, if you're trying to knock  us out with drama, how about something more  interesting than smooth jazz background music?

Recommended dishes: The tomato water with langoustine and clams ($108) is essentially seafood bisque with a tomato consomme,  but the flavours are intense and complementary. Similarly, the Sorrento lemon slivers in linguine with lobster ($268) adds a pleasing citrus twist to the pasta.   Broccoli is made a star in a flan with fried buffalo mozzarella balls and vegetable crudites (HK$98), with  a hint of horseradish. Pan-fried sea bass (HK$288) stuffed with crab meat with sweated fennel and orange  gives the palate a roller-coaster ride. Less adventurous diners can settle for  the fantastic, just-pink nuggets of veal cotoletta Milanese (HK$328). The signature dessert, Belgian chocolate cake with Catalan ice cream and coffee sabayon ($108, above), is hard to resist.

What else? Offering a post-dessert treat of a martini glass of grapes splashed with grappa is  a  nice way of  thanking you for dining here.



Aspasia