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Andrew Sun

G/F King Ho Building, 41-49 Aberdeen Street, Central
Tel: 2517 8484
Open: Tuesday-Friday noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm, Saturday and Sunday noon-11pm
Cuisine: Egyptian-inspired but  pan-Mideastern enough to include Algerian and Moroccan-style tagine stews and Turkish dishes.
Ambience: It's a  tiny space and is cosy and relaxing for an informal dinner. With a bookcase full of Arabic paperbacks,  it feels like a Cairo apartment from the 1970s, with its coffee-coloured polyvinyl chairs and tan floor tiles.
Price: A full meal with mint tea but without  alcohol was HK$335. They don't add a 10 per cent service charge.
Pros: The owner used to be chef at Habibi on Wyndham Street, so the flavours and presentation reflect that.  The halal meats are good quality.
Con: The lamb tagine (HK$70) with okra and  aubergine came slightly burned on top and the meat wasn't as tender as we'd hoped; it's possible it was pre-cooked and  reheated in the  tagine. It comes with garlic-infused rice rather than the traditional couscous.
Recommended dishes: The mixed mezze platter ($80) is a terrific introduction to Middle Eastern basics such as hummus, kofta meatballs, falafel and  aubergine dip. The  variety of three pita breads - plain, whole wheat and  herb - gets extra points, too. The halloumi cheese ($35) is unusually cut into julienne slices, which  may displease purists who would rather take a big bite of this dense cheese, but it's still  smoky and savoury. If you want something other than kebabs (which are  nicely done), one of the occasional daily specials is ferakh mahsheya ($85)  - chicken stuffed with rice. It's crispy on the outside, the white meat is not too dry and the chewy, sticky rice warms the belly. For dessert, the baklava ($25) is a classic with light flaky pastry and just enough honey and nuts for texture and taste.
What else: There's no  proper sign outside so we walked by it twice before  finding it.



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