Real foodies have to sample Roman fare that momma still makes

Forget those fancy Michelin chefs and their fusion kitchens, real foodies know the best food still comes from momma's kitchen. One of Rome's best is now at Cinecitta. Anna Dente, dubbed 'Sora Anna' and 'Queen of Roman Cooking' - joined by her professor of food and wine archaeology son, Emilio Ferracci - are the guest chefs at the Wan Chai trattoria from today until January 30.

'We come from three generations of butchers on one side and farmers on the other,' the Italian momma said. 'About fifteen years ago, we felt that traditional cuisine was being lost so we opened a family restaurant of Roman cuisine.'

Now, Sora Anna is among Rome's most famous cooks and her unpretentious, hearty fare is the toast of the city. Ferracci concurs, not only because she's his momma but he's one of Italy's leading culinary researchers. 'The traditional Italian cuisine is done by women,' he explained. 'They are the ones who cook in the family and generally they don't go abroad. All the Italian chefs now are still not as good as the millions of women preparing dinner at home, especially, if they are over 55. But young Italian women are a disaster.' Born during the war as the only daughter of butchers, momma may love to feed everyone - we didn't dare turn down her plate of oxtail ragu and pasta - but she's not someone to mess with. 'My mother was born during an American bombing assault in 1943. That's why she's tough and she is not afraid of nothing. She also knows how to use a knife.'