Advertisement
Inside Out & Outside In
Opinion
David Dodwell

How to reverse the global food crisis: listen to your grandmother – eat better, waste less, drink water and cut the sugar

  • There is more food on the planet than ever before, but diets are becoming more impoverished, dominated by sugar and junk food.
  • Eating better and wasting less are the first steps to equilibrium

Reading Time:4 minutes
Why you can trust SCMP
A woman walks past a sign advertising sugary drinks. Photo: AFP

If you land in London as a tourist in torrid midsummer, you will see the global food crisis first-hand: obese bodies exposed to the sun, fad diets alongside the most exotic arrays of junk food, the sense of plenty disguising an impoverished “global standard diet” based on a dwindling range of ingredients; obsessions with unhealthy food pursued alongside unhealthy obsessions with food.

And away from the bare, bulging, sun-basted bodies picnicking across London’s parks, it all comes into sobering focus in a marvellous exhibition called “Food – Bigger than the Plate” at the Victoria and Albert Museum, surely a counterintuitive home for an exploration of the global food crisis that becomes more glaringly unsustainable by the year, and some of the efforts aimed at bringing us back into equilibrium.

The exhibition puts the grim and ugly reality of modern mass food production alongside the multitude of ideas aimed at eating better and wasting less. Here is orange fibre being spun into high-fashion fabrics and ‘leather’ made from pineapple leaves, bioplastics made from potato peelings and veneers from corn husks, urban mushrooms grown in coffee grounds and cow dung baked into bricks, floor tiles and even table pottery.

Advertisement

You emerge from the exhibition encouraged and impressed by the ingenuity of so many small companies — like the Skipping Rocks Lab which makes Ooho! biodegradable edible packaging from seaweed — but gloomily aware that this is a minority sport played on the margins of a game dominated by the global food juggernauts. It is a minority sport that is mostly unprofitable.

All these confirm the angst consuming most communities in the developed world over the perverse reality of the unprecedented plenty sitting alongside eating habits that are literally killing us. More food does not mean better food. Instead, it means more sugary drinks, trans fats, processed meats, and a day-long stream of snacks on the run rather than crisp, clear mealtimes.
Advertisement
Select Voice
Choose your listening speed
Get through articles 2x faster
1.25x
250 WPM
Slow
Average
Fast
1.25x