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Outside In | ‘The blood diamonds of Mexico’: given avocados’ dodgy credentials, should I still be eating them?

  • To cultivate this ‘green gold’, Mexico’s forests have been stripped and its water table lowered, even as the massive profits attract drug cartels and crime
  • Getting the fruit to Hong Kong also requires expensive temperature-controlled transport and storage as part of tortuous supply chains

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Avocados from Mexico on sale at a supermarket in Bloomington, Indiana, on February 14. The US briefly banned imports from Michoacan earlier this year after a threat was made against an American federal government inspector working in Mexico. Photo: Getty Images

As every horizon, in every direction, is roiled by disasters, crises and general gloom, all of which are outside my control, I have chosen to distract myself this week with a problem closer to home: whether I should continue to eat avocados.

I feel embarrassed to be devoting myself to such a middle-class Western dilemma when so many millions in Ukraine are being bombed into oblivion, and while so many in Ethiopia – or in disgracefully forgotten Afghanistan – face starvation, but there is relief in occasionally retreating into one’s bourgeois bubble.

And it is seriously bugging me that it is so hard to find an edible avocado. I took comfort in a recent Dutch survey in which supermarket shoppers found 35 per cent of their avocados either unripe or too ripe – and that 25 per cent had to be dumped as a result. The shoppers complained that it was a gamble to buy an avocado, which seriously undermined trust in their supermarkets.

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I am ashamed to admit that I find myself in the supermarket every week poking, probing and foraging through green mountains of rock-solid avocados in search of something edible – alongside creaky, elderly Hong Kong women foraging similarly among the oranges, apples and broccoli heads.

I am frustrated that when I eventually find those few pliable enough not to break a knife, they develop mildew within a day of reaching home, going brown and rotten.

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Avocados may be a superfruit, loaded with vitamins, minerals and good cholesterol, but they are also the most fickle, and burdened with some very questionable credentials – harmful to the environment, muddled up with Mexican drug cartels, and delivered through tortuously long global supply chains.
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