EU’s ‘honey laundering’ complaints on China have protectionist sting in their tail
- China is in Europe’s sights again, this time over being the main source of adulterated and misleadingly labelled honey exported to the EU
- Europe’s agricultural sector is just the latest arena in which protectionist policies are being erected with the justification of national security
A two-year examination by the European Union’s Anti-Fraud Office of 320 samples of imported honey has found that 46 per cent of the imported samples were adulterated in a wide range of imaginative ways. They ranged from simply adding sugary syrup to additives and colourings to mislabelling and disguising where the honey came from.
It seems nowadays that all trade protectionism needs to be justified on national security grounds, and the agricultural sector is no exception.
The world’s largest importers of honey are the United States and the EU. As demand for honey has steadily risen in recent decades, local suppliers have struggled to keep up.
Europe’s beekeepers produce about 218,000 tonnes of honey annually, with a further 175,000 tonnes imported, mainly from China, Ukraine, Turkey and several Latin American countries. This threatens to give Europe’s simmering row over honey a distinctively Chinese flavour.
The EU’s security concern is simple. Since Europe’s beekeepers can’t survive on pollination services alone, income from honey is critical. If honey prices don’t stay high, beekeepers can’t stay in business. No local bees, no local pollination of food crops and an existential crisis for Europe’s highly protected farm sector.
The EU’s “From the Hive” study suggests that around half of Europe’s honey is doctored, and that the doctoring is what makes it cheap. After milk and olive oil, honey is understood to be the third-most-adulterated product in the world.
At its simplest, honey is being adulterated by adding sugar syrups. Sucrose is simple to spot in purity tests, but fructose is essentially no different from the sugars in pure honey and so is less easily spotted. Over the years, doctoring has become cleverer to slip past purity checks.
So-called resin technology is used to lighten colour and remove unpalatable aromas and flavours. Bio-engineered sweeteners are being blended. The pollen that is a key identifier of the origin of honey is being removed, and pollens from destination markets are being synthetically added to suggest local production.
Chinese honey producers are accused of placing sugar syrup supplies close to beehives, a trick that saves bees the effort of foraging while at the same time allowing them to produce honey more quickly. Given that bees normally need to tap around 4 million flowers to produce a kilo of honey, and only produce around a twelfth of a teaspoon of honey in their lifetime, some beekeepers might see this as a way of boosting honey production – even though the practice can significantly reduce bees’ pollination.
There are also accusations of harvesting unripe honeycombs. Bees don’t naturally cap the pots of the honeycomb until liquids in the honey fall below 18 per cent, so production volumes can be boosted by harvesting prematurely.
The scene seems set for the EU to use security grounds to slap substantial anti-dumping duties on China’s cheap honey. The aim will not be to raise honey prices but to provide the incentives necessary to rebuild Europe’s army of beekeepers and rebuild self-sufficiency in crop pollination services. Like it or not, national bee security has become a new protectionism.
David Dodwell is CEO of the trade policy and international relations consultancy Strategic Access, focused on developments and challenges facing the Asia-Pacific over the past four decades