Advertisement
Japan
LifestyleEntertainment

What it’s like to be a geisha in Japan: the training, schedule – and food

  • We speak to Nanoha, a geisha in Kyoto (known as a ‘geiko’), about the years spent training, their typical day and whether they really do eat bite-sized food
  • Similar to the Netflix show The Makanai, Nanoha says she shares the same sisterhood with her fellow geikos and trainees as shown in the series

Reading Time:4 minutes
Why you can trust SCMP
Geishas (called geikos in western Japan) spend many years as apprentices (known as maiko) perfecting their art. Above: Nanoha, a geiko in Kyoto. Photo: Lisa Cam
Lisa Cam

Geishas in Japan have an enigmatic charm about them. They are so revered that a teacher of the art was once declared a “living national treasure” in the country.

Seeing a real geisha is not that easy, however. Ann Kang, general manager of the DoubleTree by Hilton Kyoto Higashiyama hotel, explains how much they can cost a venue that hires them.

“They charge per hour, you have to pay for round-trip taxi fees. If you want them to perform you have to pay for a space that has a tatami stage, equipped with instruments, and all of that costs thousands of [US] dollars.”

Advertisement

Then there’s the problem of even getting into a venue that has hired one. A considerable number of such shops and restaurants refuse entry to first-time customers unless they have introductions. In Kyoto, this particularly applies to ozashiki bars, kimono shops and exclusive sushi restaurants.

A geiko performance in a still from Netflix series “The Makanai: Cooking for the Maiko House”. Photo: Netflix
A geiko performance in a still from Netflix series “The Makanai: Cooking for the Maiko House”. Photo: Netflix

“The ichigensan okotowari [no entry without introduction] culture requires an introduction before entry for first-time guests,” says Kang.

Advertisement
Advertisement
Select Voice
Choose your listening speed
Get through articles 2x faster
1.25x
250 WPM
Slow
Average
Fast
1.25x