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Eileen Sun worked in the art world in Hong Kong before changing career paths. Now she is studying fashion in London and her creations have been worn by Julia Fox, Ashnikko and two of RuPaul’s drag queens. Photo: Eileen Sun

Julia Fox, RuPaul’s drag queens wear this Chinese fashion student designer: Eileen Sun on moving from art to fashion and making her name with major stars

  • Eileen Sun felt like her ‘inner spirits and energy were withering’ when she worked in Hong Kong’s art industry – so she decided to study fashion
  • Her work is already paying off – the second year fashion student’s creations have already been worn by ‘It’ girls such as actress Julia Fox
Fashion

Even though she is still only a second year fashion school student, Chinese designer Eileen Sun Yange has already created pieces worn by “It” girls such as actress Julia Fox, rapper Ashnikko and drag queens Bimini Bon-Boulash and Black Peppa.

Sun, however, is a little different to most undergraduate students – she is also an art history graduate who worked as a curator in Hong Kong before she quit to pursue fashion design, which was something she had always wanted to do.

Born and raised in Qingdao, in eastern China’s Shandong province, Sun moved to Hong Kong in 2014 and graduated from the University of Hong Kong (HKU) in 2018 with a major in art history and a minor in comparative literature and French. From there, she worked in Hong Kong’s art industry, consulting and curating exhibitions for galleries.

“I gradually started to feel disillusioned. I had great aspirations, yet there was very little autonomy, creative freedom or intellectual stimulation in the day-to-day operation of a commercial gallery, even though you’re dealing with art all the time,” Sun says.

Sun graduated from the University of Hong Kong and worked in Hong Kong’s art industry. Photo: Eileen Sun

“I didn’t quite feel fulfilled at work, and felt that my inner spirits and energy were withering.

“Although there are things I love about the art world, I knew that if I continued further in the industry, I would be drifting further away from being a creative.”

At the end of 2020, at the height of the Covid-19 pandemic, Sun quit her job to apply to Central Saint Martins art school in London, which she says is like “a holy shrine in fashion”.

“I had zero training or experience in fashion – I’d never even used a sewing machine in my life,” said Sun, who created a fashion portfolio in three months by following YouTube videos.

That early self-taught body of work landed her a spot on the school’s fashion and textile foundation course; a year later, she was admitted to the prestigious fashion design programme.

One of Sun’s creations on a runway for the BA fashion design course at Central Saint Martins, London. Photo: Eileen Sun

“It was scary to leave everything behind and start all over again with no foreseeable future prospects,” Sun says.

“But, as cliché as it may sound, I’ve wanted to be a fashion designer since I was a child. It felt a lot more serious than a naive little girl’s dream, as it had haunted me for years into adulthood.”

Sun’s efforts were not for nought – in her first year, she garnered industry attention from international publications and established stylists who included her garments in their own cover shoots and celebrity styling.

Some of Sun’s biggest celebrity-related breaks came this summer, right after her first year at Central Saint Martins.

 
In July, Julia Fox wore a Sun design to a promotional event at the Toronto International Film Festival for Something You Said Last Night, a film about a transgender writer’s family trip. She wore a top that was cast from Sun’s own face.

The same garment can be seen in the June issue of UK-based LGBTQ magazine Gay Times, worn by Ashnikko.

Bimini Bon-Boulash and Black Peppa, who appeared on reality television show RuPaul’s Drag Race UK, both wore Sun designs in July as well.
 

Despite leaving galleries behind, Sun says studying art history and working in Hong Kong’s art scene helped shape her creative process and has influenced her work.

Sun has been incorporating art into her designs, such as when she revisited French artist Gina Pane’s work – on which she once wrote a paper at HKU – for her first undergraduate project at Central Saint Martins.

Sun feels that approaching the same artist twice through different lenses – academic and art historical versus a creative fashion interpretation – has allowed her to “really dig deep into those ideas”.

A model wears a silver-coloured face cast garment, as worn by Julia Fox at the Toronto International Film Festival in July, 2023. Photo: Eileen Sun

“I am still constantly exploring and experimenting, but I am deeply fascinated by aesthetics that are dark, sensual, poetic, mystical, disturbing and obscure, which are reflected in my work,” she says.

Sun also cites inspiration from novelist H.P. Lovecraft’s cosmic entity Cthulhu, as well as Japanese manga, of which she was an avid fan as a teenager.

These influences can be seen in her peculiar creations, which merge unfamiliar materials with the human body to create visually intriguing looks that challenge the boundaries of fashion and aesthetics.

Two models in sculptural pieces designed by Sun. Photo: Eileen Sun

“I am very drawn to the human body – many of my pieces have streamlined shapes that flow with it, while simultaneously transforming the body into an unusual, ethereal being.”

Currently, she is experimenting with unusual materials and methods, such as metal welding and plaster casting, to take on a “more conceptual and deconstructive approach”.

“Perhaps on a subconscious or conceptual level, I’m trying to re-image our presence into something hybrid, transformative and transcendental beyond our physical form and ordinary existence,” she says.

“It feels like after some detours, I’ve finally stepped onto the right path of life, to find my voice and become myself through fashion design.”

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