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The closing look from the Windowsen autumn/winter 2024 runway show. Chengdu-born designer Sensen Lii talks to the Post about his out-of-the-box aesthetics. Photo: Windowsen

Rihanna, Doja Cat, Madonna love his clothes: Sensen Lii, Chinese fashion designer, on alien looks, working with Beats By Dre and being a Britney Spears fan

  • Sensen Lii’s most recent runway show, in Paris, was indicative of everything the Chengdu-born designer stands for – futuristic, alien and fantastical fashion
  • The show, featuring a collaboration with Beats By Dre, was packed with chain mail, fur, pixelated prints, horned tops, and caged bras, with plenty of skin on show
Fashion

Set against the backdrop of a rainy Friday night in Paris, the Windowsen runway show was everything a fan of the brand would expect: like a deranged Frankenstein, the Chengdu-born designer Sensen Lii held court in a dark, dingy and rather sleazy club: Le Consulat on Avenue Parmentier.

Taking place off the official Fashion Week schedule, it stood in delicious contrast to the overt commercialism of the average catwalk show.

Drag queens of all shapes and sizes navigated the catwalk in high stiletto heels and sculpted chunky platform heels, making unimaginable contortions.

It was a performance with a capital P. And to say it played to the room is an understatement; at times, it was difficult to tell the models from the guests.

A look from the Windowsen autumn/winter 2024 runway show. Photo: Windowsen
The brand’s Kill Angels collection for autumn/winter 2024 has echoes of the costumes in Kevin Costner movie Waterworld. The emphasis was on delivery and attitude; this was more about futuristic concept and spectacle than pushing design into new territory. The looks were showcased with frenetic energy.
The Y2K-inspired, Day-Glo clothes – think tiny gym skirts, chain mail, cropped fur coats, pixelated prints, horned tops, and caged bras – are an acquired taste; plenty of skin was on show. The collection was modelled by a cast of fantastical characters – aliens, to be precise. Lii is all alien, “from inside to outside”, he says.
Sensen Lii splits his time between Paris and Shanghai. Photo: Windowsen

The Chinese designer’s world is about fetish, fantasy and experimentation. The show’s final look was a hot pink padded costume – the ultimate space armour, and worn by our master of ceremonies for the night.

The models wore crystal-embellished headphones (a snazzy collaboration with Beats By Dre, no less). The crossover with the Apple-owned company shows there is more to the avant-garde Lii than meets the eye.

Lii, who founded Windowsen in 2019, is proud to be the first Chinese designer to work with Beats By Dre, and says it is something “he never imagined happening”.

“I think creativity is our common language,” he says. Being Chinese is just a part of it – his work does not typically draw on his heritage.

The Windowsen x Beats By Dre headphones. Photo: Windowsen
Besides the spectacle of the show, it was this collaboration – and the shoes – that stood out for Paris-based stylist Daliah Spiegel, who works with Balenciaga and Ximon Lee.

“For me, these chunky glitter over-ear Beats encapsulate the joy of consuming music in public spaces and creating your own world,” she tells the Post.

“I hope I will soon spot them in the subway here,” she adds.

The Windowsen x Beats By Dre headphones. Lii is the first Chinese designer to collaborate with the Apple-owned company. Photo: Windowsen

Like a growing number of his contemporaries, Lii splits his time between Paris and Shanghai, having moved to the European fashion capital in January 2024 to supercharge his two fashion lines: ready-to-wear and couture.

“I only just found my apartment. I checked more than 12 different places. Everything goes so slowly here compared to China,” he laughs.

Lii’s average day is, by his own admission, messy. His first task when he wakes up is “replying to all the phone messages”, then it starts properly as he researches and gets stuck into future collections.

A look from the Windowsen autumn/winter 2024 runway show. Photo: Windowsen

This season he is incredibly busy meeting buyers and press. And there is plenty headed his way as his star rises.

Windowsen is certainly not your average Chinese fashion label. Lii’s aesthetic is outside the box when compared not only with Chinese contemporaries – fellow designers Didu and Rui were spotted in the crowd – but those from elsewhere.

The label’s looks have caught the eye of celebrities including Rihanna, Doja Cat and Madonna.

A look from the Windowsen autumn/winter 2024 runway show. Photo: Windowsen
Y2K culture is a major inspiration for Lii, who cited it as the driving force behind the collection. “I love Britney Spears, Paris Hilton and icons like them because I’m a kid of the 2000s. My couture design is more inspired by movies, especially The Matrix,” he says.

Spiegel admires Lii’s free thinking and his associative creative mind. “Sensen and his Chinese contemporaries have this fearless embrace of references. It makes me feel like I’m floating in this endless camera scroll of a phone or a [Instagram-like] Xiaohongshu page,” she says.

A quick scan of Chinese social media shows the brand’s rising popularity in China: the hashtag #windowsen has almost 92 million views on microblogging platform Weibo.
A look from the Windowsen autumn/winter 2024 runway show. Photo: Windowsen

According to Bohan Qiu, founder of the creative, PR and brand consultancy Boh Project, Windowsen’s representation of Chinese fashion stems from his ability to merge elements from the many subcultures that a contemporary Chinese person experiences.

“From drag culture, queer culture and anime to cyberpunk underground music, post-internet, pop culture, Sensen can always bring together its true community from around the world, not just limited to China. And I think that’s [why] his brand is really appealing to a global audience,” Qiu says.

“I won’t call [my vision] uncompromising,” says Lii. “But I have a big concept with me. It’s more like I am developing this Windowsen universe. [This showcase] is more like a ‘Shakespeare x Kill Bill’ narrative to me, which is very unique and I took elements which I think should be in this universe.”

A look from the Windowsen autumn/winter 2024 runway show. Photo: Windowsen

For those brave enough to take the plunge, it is a gripping one and open to everyone: diversity is a big brand pillar for Lii.

Windowsen does open casting calls for models on social media, which is pretty much unheard of for the average fashion week show.

“We get thousands of bios when we do that and we are so grateful. We welcome anyone who is synced with our style,” he says.

A look from the Windowsen autumn/winter 2024 runway show. Photo: Windowsen

Looking ahead, Lii says: “I think now that I’m here I need a reboot, like a robot. The past three years, Shanghai inspired me a lot but now I’m here, I need to start percolating with these new ideas I’m having.”

First up is getting his self-proclaimed “messy” flat up to date. He is in the process of shipping his collections over to Paris.

“Do you think there is anything not challenging in this city?” he asks, tongue in cheek. It is surely nothing the gutsy designer cannot handle.

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