Destination: Sai Ying Pun

Sai Ying Pun (West Camp in English) is where the British military made its base when it arrived here. Queen's Road was one of the first "streets", carving its way through makeshift tents. It was once a red-light district, and later fell foul of bubonic plague.

Today, with Sheung Wan's property prices shooting up to rival Central's, Sai Ying Pun is having its day in the sun - or rather, in the dust, with Centre Street being dug up for a new escalator. Attracted by lower rents and a tangible promise, new restaurants are popping up.

"It's definitely an up-and-coming area," says Peggy Chan of Grassroots Pantry. "The streets are close to Mid-Levels and Queen's Road West. People like to walk here during weekends, have brunch and then stroll home."

We visit five venues typical of the district's new vibe.

One of the newest and highest-end locales, Grassroots Pantry's charming facade leads to an equally sweet interior of kitsch downstairs and a private room upstairs. After starting out in the kitchen and moving to front of house with Robuchon and the Four Seasons in Hong Kong, among others, Chan developed her concept. "I've always loved, first, the idea of home cooking, and second, supporting organic farming and sustainable food," she says. "But I didn't want it to be a hippie organic vegetarian's restaurant. It's more like I'm inviting people to my house for dinner with a healthy twist."