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Water-cooked grouper.

Restaurant review: Chuan Yue Ren Jian in Tsim Sha Tsui – spicy Sichuan

Sichuan dishes are delicate, complex and authentically spicy, although diners can request milder versions if they can’t stand the heat

Ambience: quiet. On the night of our visit there was only one other table of diners in the main area, while a larger group sat in a private room.

Pros: the food is authentically spicy, but if you have delicate taste buds, you can order some of the dishes with less heat.

Sichuan chicken casserole.
Cons: Sichuan chicken casserole (HK$168 for half) had a good mix of spices, but it somehow lacked the complexity of other versions we’ve tried.
Recommended dishes: cold-dressed golden egg (HK$42) was a delicious dish of very delicate century egg in a sauce we liked so much one member of our group took the rest of it home to eat with noodles.
Pig’s ear with red oil dressing (left) and cold dressed golden egg.
The complex, balanced and spicy sauce was also a stand-out in the dish of pig’s ears with red oil dressing (HK$52). Water-cooked grouper (HK$508; or HK$458 with the standard mandarin fish) featured gently poached fish in a light and spicy broth, along with celtuce and bean sprouts.
Celtuce fried with garlic.
None of the vegetable options sounded interesting so we asked for (and received) an off-menu dish of celtuce fried with garlic (HK$78). We love this crunchy vegetable, even though its slippery texture makes it difficult to eat.
Crispy fried pig's intestine.
Crispy fried pig intestines (HK$68), served with a dip of cumin, Sichuan peppercorn and salt, had just the right amount of innard “funk” and was a good, mild dish that calmed our palates.

Price: about HK$200 without drinks or the service charge.

What else? There’s no English on the menu or the signboard, and the staff speak Putonghua with some Cantonese.

Chuan Yue Ren Jian, 1/F 10 Prat Avenue, Tsim Sha Tsui. Tel: 2573 8618. Open: noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: Chuan Yue Ren Jian
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