CLOSED - Restaurant review: Operetta in Admiralty – European with an Asian twist
The replacement for Dan Ryan’s serves up European dishes with a few Japanese ingredients, so-so starters and much better main courses
We weren’t sure what to expect of Operetta, the restaurant that replaced Dan Ryan’s in Pacific Place. We knew that Swire wouldn’t be foolish enough to replace that old favourite with another restaurant that serves American standards, but we were hearing stories about Operetta having a Japanese chef, which seemed at odds with the name.
The batter on the fried Nagasaki cuttlefish with lime zest and tartare sauce (HK$90) was light, but the dish was nothing special. House-made tagliolini with Alaskan king crab and citrus vanilla (HK$220) was also just okay; we could taste a hint of vanilla, but no citrus, which would have lightened the flavours. The crabmeat was in fine shreds, and a few chunks of it would have given more texture to the combination.
Tiramisu with limoncello mascarpone foam (HK$90) was light and creamy, but was accompanied by a grainy hazelnut ice cream.
Service for the most part was indifferent, although they did refill our water glasses frequently, and we had one smiling and friendly waiter.
Operetta, Shop 112, 1/F Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, tel: 2115 8080. About HK$400 without drinks or the service charge.