Why retro dining is getting a boost in modern Hong Kong

If you wander along Wellington Street in Central, the evidence is clear. Loyal Dining has rebranded local favourites in an upmarket cha chaan teng. Chinese vegetarian spot Kasa’s lime green décor mimics the look of a tong lau (tenement building). Even venerable Mak’s Noodle has been renovated recently, not to look more modern, but a move towards vintage chic.

The economy is a mess, housing is utterly unaffordable, and politics are dividing the city. No wonder we’re sick of the uncertain present and pine for an escape into gastro-reminiscence.

“I think people really do miss the old Hong Kong,” says Joe Lee Kwok-chun, the culinary director of Lee Lo Mei, the new retro-themed restaurant occupying two floors of 8 Lyndhurst Terrace. “You see the negative news but I don’t know if it’s the only factor. Local people always enjoy going back to street food and favourite dishes. But not many places offer it in a nicer environment so maybe that’s why they are excited by this trend. Now, they don’t have to go to Mong Kok for it.”

Lee was a protégé of Harlan Goldstein – the chef who was originally lined up to take care of the food and beverage outlets in the building. Lee took over after Goldstein’s abrupt departure, and with Lee Lo Mei, created a place loaded with retro Hong Kong motifs and trinkets, while serving modern Hong Kong street food.

“We think it’s a unique place. There are a lot of classic dishes we want to present but with modern touches. A lot of the old restaurants from the 1970s and ’80s are disappearing. One by one they are closing, but there are still a lot of people looking for these environments.”