Dim sum has gone beyond simply being a lunchtime treat, and the Aqua Restaurant Group is joining the movement.

Dim Sum Library has an impressively long bar with high gilt chairs and lovely Chinoiserie paintings of birds, while tables opposite and in the back reveal an intimate space for small groups.

We’d heard good things about thetruffled shrimp dumpling but went for the wagyu beef puff (HK$88 for three), one of the chef’s recommendations. It is delicious and subtle, with pastry so delicate it breaks apart when we try to pick it up.

Another recommendation is the dan dan xiao long bao (HK$48 for three). The orange-coloured dumpling skin is very thin and as we pick it up with chopsticks, some of the soup spills into our spoon. It's medium spicy, and so good we wonder why it hasn’t been done before.

We try to order another signature dish, the Yunnan black truffle crispy skin chicken (HK$195 half,
HK$390 whole) but it was already sold out.

From the list of vegetarian dishes, we tried the wild mushroom dumplings with beetroot (HK$48 for three) which is another winner. The maroon-coloured wrapper is full of meaty and savoury diced mushrooms.

The leopard coral grouper fillet dumplings (HK$68 for three) are pretty, with thefish on top and finely diced vegetables and garlic at the bottom. It’s a little too subtle on its own, though, and needs some light soy sauce.

The restaurant does a version of braised eggplant with minced pork(HK$108) using thick strips of eggplant that are deep-fried and placed like jenga blocks on the platter before being topped with bits of minced pork and diced thin green beans. We like the soft, almost tofu-like texture of some of the eggplant pieces.