My sensational meal at a San Sebastian txokos – private dining and drinking club in the Spanish Basque town

Few destinations can rival San Sebastian in Spain’s Basque region when it comes to eating out. As if Michelin-starred dining and superb local tapas weren’t enough, the txokos – Basque culinary societies – add another layer of interest to the town.

Pronounced “cho-kos” and meaning “a cosy corner”, these private dining and drinking clubs, many of which date back a century, are open only to members. Found across the Basque country, estimates suggest that more than a thousand still exist.

Historically, a sidreria was a rural cider bar, a sort of small local pub that served as the community’s focal point. As people moved to the cities, however, they lacked such venues and so started pooling resources to rent a shared space that allowed them to keep costs down but still host friends and family, otherwise impossible in small private apartments.

These txokos were originally affiliated with sporting and cultural activities such as rowing, singing or football, while many still show allegiance through insignia and memorabilia on richly decorated walls. The role they continue to play in sustaining the Basque language and traditions can also not be underestimated: particularly during the years under the rule of right-wing dictator General Franco, they were one of the few venues where Basque culture could be celebrated.