New restaurants in Central: Guo Fu Lou – tea-smoked chicken fantastic, and worth the uphill trek
The hot walk up Garden Road to The Murray hotel was worth it as we enjoyed dish after dish of delicately flavoured Cantonese classics – although prices are on the high side
Getting to Guo Fu Lou takes a bit of effort, at least if you’re walking. The Chinese restaurant relocated from Wan Chai to The Murray hotel, which is across the street from St John’s Cathedral and between Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive, about a 15-minute walk (uphill) from the Central MTR station. This would be nothing to complain about if we were in a temperate climate, but in the Hong Kong summer it can feel like you’re exercising in a sauna.
Fortunately, the meal is worth the hike.
One of my guests used to be a regular customer at Guo Fu Lou in Wan Chai, and she was immediately recognised by the staff, who came over to suggest dishes we should try. While we were tempted by their recommendations of steamed crab claw and some of the fresh fish dishes, their prices made us hesitate, and we ended up composing our own meal instead.
Barbecued pork (HK$160 for small, HK$240 for large) came in thick, succulent pieces with a mildly sweet glaze.
The only dish we disliked was deep-fried bean curd with spicy salt (HK$160 or HK$220). It didn’t come with spicy salt, but with garlic and chillies, and the bean curd was over fried so the crust was too thick and dark.
Guo Fu Lou, UG/F (in the pavilion building), The Murray Hong Kong, 22 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, tel: 3468 8188. About HK$470 per person, without drinks or the service charge.
While you’re in the area: