‘King of White Truffles’ Italian chef opens a Chinese diner in Hong Kong
- Michelin-starred chef Umberto Bombana is better known for opening high-class Italian restaurants in Hong Kong and Macau
- His latest outlet, Nove Chinese Kitchen, will serve all-day dim sum and Chiu Chow food
The King of White Truffles has now set his sights on conquering dim sum. Chef Umberto Bombana of Michelin-starred Italian restaurants 8 ½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana, Ciak and Octavium has expanded his dining empire with a Chinese diner called Nove Chinese Kitchen.
The diner in Li Yuen Street East, a busy lane in Hong Kong’s Central business district lined with market stalls, has retro-Chinese-themed decor and will serve all-day dim sum along with a selection of Chiu Chow marinated dishes, including beef flank and goose.
“I’m fascinated with the tradition and techniques of Chinese food,” Bombana explains. “And I like dim sum a lot, going with my family on weekends.”
Formerly a discount clothing outlet, the space has high ceilings, art deco fixtures and playful East-meets-West artwork that is subtle rather than in-your-face kitsch.
The food aspires to the level you would expect from a chefof Bombana’s calibre. The marinated goose could be served at any Chiu Chow clan dinner. The signature pork belly steam bun makes nice use of mui choi (preserved mustard greens). The sweet custard bun oozes a creamy filling accented with salted egg yolk.
Cantonese favourites such as har gau and siu mai (steamed pork dumpling) are expertly prepared, too. For a twist, Bombana reinterprets the spring rolls using seafood and a healthy hit of mustard.
As for the name, it continues Bombana’s fascination with numbers. Eight might be his favourite digit (Octavium, Otto e Mezzo) but nine is the number of the address on Li Yuen East – Nove is nine in Italian, and it also references the root word for new (nova).
Nove Chinese Kitchen officially opens on July 15. 9 Li Yuen Street East, Central, tel: 2180 6799.
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