Where to eat when you’re skiing in Niseko, Japan: good value sushi, delicate tempura, and the best soba noodles Anthony Bourdain ever ate
- Who needs fine dining after a day on the ski slopes? We sample yakitori chicken skewers, sushi, and superb soba noodles in and around the Hokkaido snow resort
- Wherever you go, the Japanese obsession with quality is evident. We had no trouble getting tables off season, but in high season you’ll need to book
Of the produce most often featured on fine-dining menus in Hong Kong, more is sourced from Hokkaido than anywhere else. So it’s no surprise that taking a five-hour flight from the city to Sapporo is well worth it for the dining.
The island’s capital and its largest city, Sapporo entices diners with stellar ingredients, whether they’re served in Michelin-starred dining rooms or at places like Nijo Market, which is where a donburi (rice bowl) topped with hyperlocal sea urchin, king crab and salmon roe is truly one of life’s great culinary experiences.
Of course Niseko can be visited year-round thanks to its pristine, stunning landscapes, relaxed lifestyle and well-priced dining. It’s worth bearing in mind that a lot of places close in the off season, but can also book up months in advance when skiers and snowboarders descend en masse on Japan’s northernmost main island.
Two such restaurants worth a quick mention were closed during my visit, Michelin-starred Kamimura and Roketto. The former offers French-Japanese dining that wins rave reviews; the latter is a funky, relaxed izakaya-style spot where Singaporean Willin Low is the chef. He makes Singaporean dishes with Japanese twists, and diners keep coming back for more of his laksa udon, bak kut teh ramen and braised pork belly rice.
After a long, rewarding but tiring day on the slopes, few visitors will want to sit through a three-hour tasting menu. The following places are relaxed in style and reasonably priced.