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Rech by Alain Ducasse at the InterContinental Hong Kong closed without warning on March 11, laying off all its staff. Photo: InterContinental Hong Kong

With no tourists, fine-dining restaurants in Hong Kong must adapt to survive the coronavirus pandemic

  • Hong Kong’s dining industry, already affected by months of anti-government protests, is in crisis due to the coronavirus pandemic
  • Fine-dining restaurants have been hit hard and, with a recession coming, need to streamline and innovate to stay afloat, food and beverage consultants say

On my way home from work on March 11, I received a WhatsApp message from a friend in the hotel industry telling me she had heard that Rech by Alain Ducasse in the InterContinental Hong Kong was closing that evening, and that all the kitchen staff and servers would be laid off.

It was shocking news. A big name like Ducasse and a Michelin star retained for three consecutive years was not enough to keep the restaurant going. I checked the hotel’s website and the fine dining contemporary French seafood restaurant had already been scrubbed off even before the evening dinner service was over.

It turns out the staff weren’t told until that afternoon that they would be let go that evening; it doesn’t seem like they had an inkling that such drastic action would be taken.

Many hotels and restaurants in Hong Kong are suffering after more than eight months of anti-government protests followed by the coronavirus pandemic, which has effectively stopped the tourism and hospitality industries in their tracks.
French chef Alain Ducasse’s fine-dining restaurant Rech by Alain Ducasse shut down without warning on March 11. Photo: Nora Tam
Major events in the city have either been cancelled, including the Standard Chartered Marathon, Art Basel and the Hong Kong Arts Festival, or postponed, like the Hong Kong Sevens. These would have brought much needed money the local economy – to shops, restaurants and hotels that badly needed some respite from the protests.
A lot of hotel staff are taking unpaid leave while working part-time. But to shut down a restaurant so quickly shows hotel owners are losing patience or want to cut their losses amid uncertain times. With the closure of Rech by Alain Ducasse, I wondered how other fine-dining restaurants were adapting. I reached out to a few hotels and fine dining restaurant groups, but they either politely declined or didn’t reply.
Duck foie gras from Gourmet Dining Group. Photo: Gourmet Dining Group

Gourmet Dining Group was not willing to talk numbers or how the coronavirus and protests have affected its restaurants, but said it is taking advantage of several initiatives to weather the tough situation with people wary of going out to dine.

The group’s stable of restaurants includes the two-Michelin-star Arbor in Central, the one-Michelin-star Epure in Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, and French pastry brand Dalloyau (several locations).

The group’s spokeswoman said that the coronavirus pandemic is “one of the most challenging crises that the [food and beverage] industry is facing; we are trying our best to retain consumers’ confidence and meet their changing dining patterns as the virus spreads”.

Tomato pasta from Dalloyau. Dalloyau is encouraging its customers to order takeaway and delivery meals. Photo: Gourmet Dining Group

While Gourmet Dining Group’s restaurants were already adhering to high standards of hygiene, food quality and service, she points out the restaurants’ tables are widely spaced, and that there is the option of dining alfresco at Epure.

Dalloyau has bistros and cafes, and is encouraging diners to buy takeaways or order delivery of meals, such as pastas, burgers and salads. In addition to the regular six-course menu offered at Epure for HK$1,488 (US$190), since November the French restaurant has been serving a four-course menu for HK$988.

Two Hong Kong-based restaurant consultants, each of whom has their own establishments, suggest restaurants become more lean and flexible in their operations, and think about creative ways to offer value to diners.

Ivan Fernie, restaurant consultant and co-owner of Ask for Alonzo in Quarry Bay and Tai Hang. Photo: Ivan Fernie

Ivan Fernie has worked in the Hong Kong restaurant industry for more than two decades, and recently opened a second branch of Ask for Alonzo, a trattoria serving Mediterranean cuisine, in Tai Hang – the location was chosen to avoid the anti-government protests that frequently block the main east-west artery and adjoining streets on Hong Kong Island. With rent the biggest expense for restaurants, operators must find more understanding landlords, Fernie says.

“Landlords need to understand that you don’t need to open a restaurant in Central to be successful,” he says. “You need to have a good relationship with your landlord so they will reduce rent temporarily or permanently. Swire have been brilliant. They have been going to their tenants and saying, ‘We’ll offer you a discount’.”

The protests that started in June also caused a trend of people eating more in their neighbourhoods.

“This gives an opportunity to local restaurants to give real quality and they can meet the people coming to their outlet,” Fernie says. “Hong Kong is a transient place; it’s different to have true loyalty from people who have lived for generations in a neighbourhood. They also have more reasonable landlords.”

Samsen in Sheung Wan is one of a number of newly opened restaurants in Hong Kong that is still doing well during the pandemic. Photo: Samsen

Fernie says expats with large expense accounts are gone, which makes it harder for high-end restaurants to survive. Still, how does he explain what happened to Rech by Alain Ducasse, which offered five-course set menus for HK$1,288, featuring seafood from France, that seemed like good value for a Michelin-starred restaurant?

“Was it making more [money] before the protests? Or was the restaurant already struggling when it opened and the protests were the straw that broke the camel’s back?” Fernie says. “Also, how much does the restaurant mean to them [hotel owners] to keep open in Hong Kong? Mostly it’s monetary based. The high-end restaurants are struggling. The Tsim Sha Tsui restaurants are being kept alive by hotels, but what is their occupancy now?”

While restaurants that have recently opened in Hong Kong such as Mono, Henry, The Pizza Project, and Samsen’s Sheung Wan branch are heaving, Fernie says places that have been open for a few years need to persuade people to come back, which may mean reinventing themselves. Unless you have a really loyal customer base and a landlord that will give you a break on the rent, you will struggle, he says.
Haku executive chef Agustin Balbi. Photo: Haku

One restaurant that has benefited from customer loyalty is Haku, a Japanese restaurant with a European twist inside the Harbour City luxury mall. It opened about two years ago and has been doing well these last few months, executive chef Agustin Balbi says. He also credits its small size, which means guests are more likely to have made a reservation than walk in.

Restaurant consultant Caleb Ng Pak-wah, of Twins Kitchen, anticipates there will be a wave of closures in the near future, especially of fine-dining restaurants.

“It will be tough to pick up business because hotels are struggling without tourists,” he explains. Ng believes Rech by Alain Ducasse closed because 50 per cent of its clientele were probably tourists. “If there were no protests and just the coronavirus now, more restaurants would probably survive,” he says. “We had eight months of protests followed right after by the virus.”

He believes people still need to go out to eat, but many will choose to dine in more casual places with price-sensitive menus, and may dine out only half as often. “A recession is coming, so this is just the beginning. Towards the end of the year the economy could get worse. For the [food and beverage] industry and retail it is the worst now, but for other sectors it could be three to four months from now, like banking and real estate … fingers crossed,” Ng says.

Restaurant consultant Caleb Ng Pak-wah. Photo: SCMP

He says when news of the Covid-19 coronavirus outbreak in Wuhan, China, broke, Hongkongers were concerned about it, having experienced the severe acute respiratory syndrome (Sars) outbreak 17 years ago. “The number of cases is low, not like South Korea or Japan; we overreacted a bit, but in a good way,” Ng says.

The government’s suggestion for people to stay home for the first few weeks hit the hospitality industry immediately, and forced Ng and other restaurants operators to rethink how they run their businesses.

 “We changed our operational hours to close earlier, which means less staff in the evenings; we are doing more takeaway, and [we are] more price-sensitive. People started returning to their workplaces over a week ago and Ng, who owns Interval coffee bar and a cafe called Common Ground in Central, has seen a 10 per cent increase in lunch customers compared to more than two weeks earlier.

If there were no protests and just the coronavirus now, more restaurants would probably survive. We had eight months of protests followed right after by the virus.
 Caleb Ng Pak-wah, restaurant consultant

He doesn’t think this is the end of fine dining in Hong Kong, but says fine-dining restaurants need to be more flexible and offer a set menu at a lower price, or with fewer courses, and give diners the option of paying extra to add indulgences such as uni, caviar and truffles.

 Both Ng and Fernie stress the importance of making takeaway dishes available on delivery platforms, as there are people who don’t want to cook or cannot cook. “Fried food is good, curry and stews, as the taste won’t be affected too much while being delivered,” says Ng.

 Fernie has seen Ask for Alonzo’s daily revenue more than double through diners ordering takeaways, especially for delivery to residential addresses rather than offices. When all is said and done, he is still betting on Hong Kong. “I’ve been here since 1991 and Hong Kong’s resilience is unmeasured,” says Fernie. “You have to believe Hong Kong will find a way to make it work.”

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