Millennials’ love of casual dining revives food courts – but of the hip, artisanal, and pricey kind
- Hong Kong’s newest food court, BaseHall in Jardine House, has a cool design and hip culinary talent, but do you really want to pay HK$128 for a laksa?
- Hawker food stalls and cooked food centres are enjoyable to eat at because they are authentic and appeal to all
Here’s another sign of Covid-19’s devastating effect on the Hong Kong restaurant scene: the hottest new opening this summer is a food court.
The thing is, that’s not a term most retail operators want to use. It’s far too down-market for any shopping development that aims to project prestige and luxury.
The trend among malls in Hong Kong business districts to eliminate fast and cheap meal counters began a little more than 10 years ago. Pacific Place turfed out their popular food court for a Lane Crawford Home store. IFC and Elements deliberately didn’t leave space for multi-vendor dining areas.
Not even McDonald’s is really welcome any more. Their outlets have been relegated from prime high-traffic locations to remote back lots. Think about where you have to go for McNuggets now if you’re at Elements, IFC or Pacific Place. Even a classier concept like Food Republic has retreated from Cityplaza in Taikoo Shing.
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The millennial generation’s love of casual dining and hanging out is changing the paradigm again and giving food courts a new lease of life, albeit with a makeover. Hip food halls are now found across American and European cities, often in public markets, serving artisanal food on canteen trays.
No one in Asia needs to be reminded of this. We are the land of hawker stalls and street food. Asians pioneered this. We understand eating is not just eating, it has a social function.
At BaseHall, the impulse to elevate the food with a curated roster of artisanal chefs using fresh ingredients is laudable, but the corporate mandate for Central-size returns means it’s probably the priciest food court in Hong Kong. BaseHall is all right if you are OK with paying HK$128 (US$16.50) for a laksa – albeit a good one – in a funky office building basement.
I’ve always felt the most enjoyable food markets are not elitist. Eating from the hawker stalls of Singapore, Malaysia, Vietnam and Taiwan is enjoyable and memorable because their food is authentic and inexpensive, and appeals to all ages and to locals, expats and visitors. Hong Kong’s humble dai pai dong and underrated cooked food centres are part of this tradition.
Will I ever go back to BaseHall? Sure, for a quick bowl of noodles if I’m in the area. But if a tourist asks me if it’s worth a visit, I would find out a little more about what they want and say, “That depends: are you more likely to enjoy souvenir shopping in Pacific Place or the ladies’ market in Mong Kok?”