‘Where the new wave of South American cuisine started’: three chefs from the continent on food they love to cook
- Chefs from Argentina, Peru and Venezuela, all running restaurants in Hong Kong, explain what is special about their countries’ cuisines
- For Agustin Balbi at Ando and Ricardo Chaneton at Mono it is the melting pot of cultures, for Abel Ortiz Alvarez at Chullschick it is ceviche – cured raw fish
At more than 44 million square kilometres (17 million square miles) – almost twice the size of China – and with a population of more than 400 million, South America has a culinary landscape as diverse as its remarkable geography and cultures.
Diners in Hong Kong can choose from an array of South American cuisines, but three chefs based in the city – an Argentinian, a Peruvian and a Venezuelan – stand out for the way in which they celebrate native cuisines while adding their own touches.
Many chefs talk about their “journey”, but few have come as far as Balbi. He started off in Ramos Mejia in Buenos Aires before moving to New York, Tokyo and, since 2015, Hong Kong.
He explains that when it comes to food, Argentina is often misunderstood. “I think there’s maybe a misconception that Argentina is all about grilled meat, when we are so much more than that. It is a very big country, and the cuisine varies dramatically. It is a melting pot of cultures with a lot of immigrants from Spain and Italy, and you can see those influences in our food,” he says.
The sleek, contemporary design at Ando features a palette of soft charcoal and greys, striking artwork and ceramics, comfortable and elegant leather chairs, and a large, open kitchen.