Three chefs on the challenges of opening restaurants amid Covid-19 pandemic, and how they have had to adapt

One thing three chefs who have opened restaurants in Hong Kong since the coronavirus crisis began agree on – they have had to be nimble and adaptable

Korean restaurant Hansik Goo and French bistro Jean May opened just before a short-lived ban on dine-in services and, like Ando, needed takeaway menus fast

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The interior of Korean casual restaurant Hansik Goo, one of a number to have opened in Hong Kong amid the Covid-19 pandemic. Chefs have had to change their concepts and create takeaway menus to cope with evolving regulations to ensure social distancing. Photo; Hansik Goo

Published: 12:26pm, 11 Sep 2020Updated: 9:00pm, 16 Sep 2020

The impact of Covid-19 on Hong Kong’s restaurant industry has been nothing short of devastating.

Although official figures for restaurant closures have not been released, it would appear thousands have closed for good since January and more are on the verge of shutting. Restaurant takings have plummeted, and research by meal delivery company Deliveroo recently suggested that up to 80,000 restaurant jobs may be at risk in the next wave of closures.

At the same time new restaurants have opened. They have overcome major obstacles, delays, forced closures and, in one case, two forced quarantines for the chef.

That chef is Kang Min-goo at Hansik Goo in Central on Hong Kong Island. The chef holds two Michelin stars for his restaurant, Mingles, in Seoul in South Korea. Kang felt confident that Hong Kong gourmets would take to his planned casual Korean spot with largely à la carte menus.

Kang Min-goo of Hansik Goo spent two weeks in mandatory quarantine when he arrived in Hong Kong – and again in South Korea. Photo: Hansik Goo

In November, he began travelling frequently to Hong Kong to oversee preparations for the launch of Hansik Goo, which he was opening with ZS Hospitality Group. By January, however, it became apparent that the frequency of his trips would have to change – along with the concept for the restaurant.

“I couldn’t go to Hong Kong as often as we expected and our team had to prepare for the opening without me present. Since Hansik Goo is our first restaurant project outside Korea, many variables were expected. So instead of composing a variety of à la carte menus, we decided to serve a tasting menu,” Kang says.