Mouthing Off | Street food doesn’t need elevating – unless you’re an insecure chef

Elevated gastronomy can take many forms, but generally it’s all smoke and mirrors, with no obvious improvement in the food being served

It’s also a way of charging customers more; serving Iberico char siu with manuka honey is like selling a fanny pack with an LV logo

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Lunar New Year street food stalls along Portland Street in Mong Kok, Hong Kong. It’s a waste of time when chefs try to elevate such dishes, says the Post’s Andrew Sun. Photo: Antony Dickson

Published: 9:45am, 5 Mar 2022

Against my better judgement, I found myself watching yet another MasterChef episode on TV. In this particular one, the challenge for the contestants was to take street food and elevate it.

As the frazzled contestants rushed about trying to make fancy tacos, deconstruct Philly cheesesteak and lobster roll and plate posh fusion kebabs, I got more confused by this whole exercise in culinary inanity.

What hypothetical customer is looking for elevated street food? Are there diners thinking, “Gosh, I wish I didn’t have to eat with my hands, or off a disposable plate, in the middle of an outdoor alley.”

Somebody please tell these poor souls we now have things called restaurants. They have tables, chairs, napkins and the dishes can be enjoyed with real cutlery. Elevated street food is essentially restaurant food.

Street food in Hong Kong. Elevated street food is essentially restaurant food that’s made to look pretty. Photo: Antony Dickson

As a construct, it’s as silly as someone wanting to do casual fine dining. It’s either “casual” or it’s “fine”. As oxymorons go, it’s almost as stupid as when fashion tried to deliver us “grunge glamour”.

.css-1m2rp1p{color:#34b8b5;}Mouthing Off | Street food doesn’t need elevating – unless you’re an insecure chef

Mouthing Off | Street food doesn’t need elevating – unless you’re an insecure chef