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Food and Drinks
LifestyleFood & Drink
Mouthing Off
Andrew Sun

The same old restaurants keep opening over and over again in Hong Kong. Give me something new

  • Does Hong Kong really need so many modern Cantonese, ‘authentic’ Italian or organic healthy vegan concepts, or can we go for something a little different?
  • It’s not easy brainstorming new ideas, but here are some for free: Caribbean, proper Mexican, and fine-dining Filipino cuisine

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Why can’t I eat a reindeer fillet steak or Puerto Rican mofongo in Hong Kong, our columnist wonders. Photo: Shutterstock
Andrew Sun has dabbled in many shades of the media spectrum for 25 years, from college radio, TV, print and online columnist to starting film festivals, managing music labels and authoring food books.

Why does it feel like the more new restaurants that open, the fewer places I want to eat at? Launches happen every week in Hong Kong, but lately it’s like déjà vu with the same formulas over and over again.

Like Hollywood movies, there are a lot of remakes and reboots. Do we really need more modern Cantonese, “authentic” Italian, or organic healthy vegan concepts? Or am I just jaded and tired of newly sprouted and highly touted establishments that disappoint?

More significantly, do we really crave these cuisines? Sure, an executive chef’s creativity is a major factor, but to extend the Hollywood metaphor, not every cook is a Scorsese or Tarantino. Most new eateries are more like Fast And Furious sequels – flashy, predictable, promising more than they deliver. You also leave thinking: “Wow, so much was spent on so little substance.”

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New doesn’t always mean novel. Hong Kong has a wonderfully diverse restaurant scene, but it can always be better. It’s not easy brainstorming new ideas, but if I was a restaurateur, here are some under-represented cuisines I would happily dish for dinner.

Make mine a mofongo, says Andrew Sun, a fan of the Puerto Rican saucy mashed plantain served with pork. Photo: Shutterstock
Make mine a mofongo, says Andrew Sun, a fan of the Puerto Rican saucy mashed plantain served with pork. Photo: Shutterstock

1. Caribbean food

Not just Jamaican jerk chicken and ackee and saltfish, although it would be nice if someone opened such a takeaway in Chungking Mansions. Previous places that offered jerk dishes always made it too sweet and not spicy enough, like a barbecue sauce infused with wimpy peppers.

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