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Food and Drinks
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‘I can’t get enough of them’: pan-fried beef buns hit the spot for Hong Kong chef. Plus his picks for Thai, clay pot rice and late-night bites

  • Chef John Nguyen is head of Vietnamese cuisine at restaurant group Black Sheep. He reveals his top food picks in Hong Kong, Ho Chi Minh City and New York
  • Whether enjoying casual Thai fare, celebrating with Chinese-French fusion, or feasting on pan-fried beef buns, he strives to find inspiration when dining out

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Islam Food’s pan-fried beef buns. Vietnamese-American chef John Nguyen can’t get enough of them. He tells us his other go-to places to eat in Hong Kong. Photo: K.Y. Cheng
Andrew Sun

Born in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, and raised in California, John Nguyen is head of Vietnamese cuisine at Hong Kong dining group Black Sheep Restaurants, and oversees local favourites Chôm Chôm and Le Garçon Saigon. He spoke to Andrew Sun.

I grew up as a first-generation American in the large Vietnamese community of Orange County in southern California. When it comes to food, I am more than curious. I want to try everything from street food to fine dining, to get inspiration.

My current record is eating at eight restaurants in a day. I believe the more I eat, the better I understand flavour profiles, and can build a bigger database of recipes and techniques in my head.

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There weren’t many good Vietnamese restaurants in Hong Kong when I first arrived here, so whenever I craved Saigon flavours, I turned to Thai food. It shares a lot of similarities with Vietnamese cuisine.

Vietnamese-American chef John Nguyen is the head of Vietnamese cuisine for Black Sheep Restaurants. Photo: John Nguyen
Vietnamese-American chef John Nguyen is the head of Vietnamese cuisine for Black Sheep Restaurants. Photo: John Nguyen

I would get my fix at Samsen (68 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai. Tel: 2234 0001). My constant visits led me to meet the man behind the restaurant, chef Adam Cliff, and we became good friends.

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