In particular, he believes that guests surprised by the amount of raw seafood Noi serves fail to understand that it is not purely the domain of the Japanese.

“In Italy we eat a lot of raw food, it’s called crudo di pesce,” he says, of the common preparation of sliced raw fish and shellfish that can be found in coastal towns and cities from Sicily in the south to Venice in the north.

“My question is ‘what is Italian food?’” he asks, a subject he relishes and to which he is helping provide an answer.

“Why do I need to have more pasta on the menu to say this is Italian?” he adds rhetorically. “It is ridiculous, because the country’s cuisine is so big and varied.”

A clue as to what to expect at Noi can be seen in the menu’s description of the experience as “Italian omakase”, which leaves what is served in the chef’s hands. It is contemporary Italian by way of Europe and Asia, with firm nods to Japan.

“Italian food is similar to Japanese food in the way you treat ingredients and the approach you have to seasons,” says Airaudo, whose main criterion for choosing produce is to secure “the best of the best”.

Slices of raw clam, scallop and abalone served in the shell, or crudo of hamachi (yellowtail fish) topped with sea grapes, could be a stand-in for sashimi, although he rejects any suggestion that the addition of soy or ponzu sauce makes it an Asian dish, saying that they are merely condiments and the techniques used are still Italian.

He admits that a chawanmushi of crab and matsutake mushroom is “borderline” in its ties to Italy. And, backtracking a little on his earlier statement, he concedes that “you always need to have a pasta or rice on the menu”, before adding that we shouldn’t be so hung up on, or literal about, authenticity at the expense of creativity.

Airaudo’s unconventional approach to cooking can be explained in part by his background. The chef was born in Argentina to an Italian immigrant family, and the mixing of flavours and cultures began at an early age.

He became a chef by accident. “I come from a family of bankers and accountants,” he says. He briefly studied graphic design and even law before a passion for travel found him landing jobs in kitchens because it was easy as a traveller and “it doesn’t matter if you speak the language or not”.

His travels started close to home – South America, North America – then progressed to the Middle East, before he landed a job at pioneering Basque contemporary restaurant Arzak in Spain in 2010. From there he rose rapidly, moving to three-Michelin-star The Fat Duck in the UK and the acclaimed Magnolia in Rome.

Despite working for some of the world’s best known chefs, Airaudo does not cite any mentors. “I discovered a lot of good things where I worked and they were amazing restaurants, but I can’t say ‘this is my mentor’. It’s maybe because I’ve always jumped from one place to the other, trying to create my own career and open my own restaurant.”

The first came in 2015, La Bottega, in Geneva, Switzerland. Its fresh take on Italian cuisine was quickly recognised by Michelin inspectors, with the restaurant earning its first star within six months of opening.

Earning the star came as a big surprise, Airaudo says. “It was completely unexpected and I discovered the news through a food blog.” Excited, he dashed to a bookstore to buy a copy of the guide, but had to wait patiently for an hour until they reached the shelves.

Amelia in San Sebastian, Spain, followed in 2017. The name is a variation on his daughter Amelie’s name, and holds two Michelin stars, making it the first restaurant run by a foreigner in the region to attain such a distinction.

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It is Noi, which translates as “we” or “us”, that aligns closely with the style and philosophy of the original Amelia, with its focus on premium seasonal ingredients and a light, seafood-centric menu that evolves constantly based on what’s available.

As a result, diners should not expect to find signature dishes at Noi, a notion that Airaudo eschews, saying: “I don’t understand that kind of thing.”

Instead, he says, “we change the dishes during the year, so you can recognise my style and what has been served before, but it’s not the same”.

Rather than tailoring menus to individual tastes, the chef prefers to serve the same dishes to all diners at any one sitting, arguing that it would be too messy to do otherwise.

“You will sacrifice quality and we cannot do that. I don’t even adapt the menu. If you don’t eat shellfish, that is your problem, not mine. This is what we serve, and this is what we do,” Airaudo says, suggesting that if people dislike it they can dine elsewhere.

He quickly adds that he does this not to be arrogant or rude. “We work really hard to build the menu,” he explains. “We sacrifice a lot to prepare and serve all the things.”

Allergies can be accommodated. Those unable to eat shellfish will be given fish, which can also be served in place of meat, and the team are highly sensitive to nut intolerances.

Vegetarians, vegans, and those on a gluten-free diet are out of luck, however. “Many times it’s not an allergy, it’s because people don’t want to eat it, and I don’t accommodate personal preferences,” he says.

So far, it is not fussy eaters that have been the problem, with bookings solid since the restaurant opened in September despite the HK$2,800 (US$360) price tag for the dinner tasting menu, excluding drinks and service charge. Rather, it is attracting the calibre of staff required to successfully run such a high-level operation and win Michelin stars.

In Hong Kong’s already tight hospitality labour market Noi is a relative unknown, and the city’s employment laws mean that Airaudo is unable to bring in too many expats, although he says he would have a ready team if he could.

Both are responsible for executing the vision of the jet-setting chef, who has only been able to spend limited time at Noi.

Despite the recent challenges and travails of Hong Kong, including street protests in 2019 and pandemic-related restrictions, Airaudo is bullish about the restaurant’s prospects.

“I love the city – it is really vibrant, always moving, interesting, and full of possibilities. Hong Kong has amazing chefs and a huge variety of really good food,” he says.

“I strongly believe Hong Kong is an amazing place with a lot of potential and Noi is my flagship in Asia. ”