Advertisement
Food and Drinks
LifestyleFood & Drink

Why Hong Kong’s taste for an endangered reef fish is a problem, and how to eat seafood sustainably

  • The endangered humphead wrasse is a delicacy served at some Hong Kong restaurants. Diners may not know it, but some are imported illegally
  • World Oceans Day is a good time to remind people there is help available for them to make informed choices about the seafood on their plates and eat responsibly

Reading Time:4 minutes
Why you can trust SCMP
5
Hong Kong University researcher Yvonne Sadovy with a humphead wrasse in French Polynesia. The species is considered a delicacy in Hong Kong despite its endangered status. Photo: George Mitcheson
Kylie Knott

Humphead wrasse is often dished up at seafood restaurants in Hong Kong. Considered a delicacy, it has been known to fetch as much as US$850 per kilogram.

But many people may not be aware that the majestic creature, also called Napoleon wrasse and admired for its vivid colouring and intricate markings, is one of the world’s most endangered coral reef fish.

While trade in the species is restricted in Hong Kong and requires permits from the Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department (AFCD), environmentalists say it should be taken off menus altogether.

Advertisement

The slow-breeding fish, which can grow to two metres (6.5 feet) long and take five years to reach adulthood in the wild, is under threat from overfishing.

A humphead wrasse in the waters of West Papua, Indonesia. Photo: Getty Images
A humphead wrasse in the waters of West Papua, Indonesia. Photo: Getty Images

In 2004, its status was upgraded from vulnerable to endangered by the International Union for Conservation of Nature, which sets the conservation status of animal species. It is also listed as endangered by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Fauna and Flora (Cites).

Advertisement
Dr Yvonne Sadovy has spent decades studying humphead wrasse as part of her research with the University of Hong Kong (HKU). She knows just how murky the trade in the fish can get.
Advertisement
Select Voice
Choose your listening speed
Get through articles 2x faster
1.25x
250 WPM
Slow
Average
Fast
1.25x