‘When I lost the star, I didn’t give up’: how Singapore chef behind Hawker Chan, once the world’s cheapest Michelin-star restaurant, still sells 1,000 meals a day

Hawker Chan in Singapore became the world’s cheapest Michelin-star restaurant when it was recognised in the coveted guide in 2016. But in 2021 the star was lost
Undeterred, the stall’s founder, Chan Hong Meng, opened outlets around the world. Some people say his food isn’t as good, but he takes criticism ‘in his stride’

Food and Drinks

Business Insider

Published: 4:15pm, 7 Jul 2023

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Chan Hong Meng’s journey to becoming one of Asia’s most famous chefs wasn’t easy.

The 56-year-old Malaysian-born chef started as an apprentice at a Hong Kong restaurant when he was just 18 years old. It took over two decades before he decided to open his Singapore hawker stall – named Hawker Chan – in 2009.

And in that tiny stall, he served thousands of patrons his version of chicken rice – the city state’s de facto national dish – which comprises roasted chicken, seasoned rice, and soy sauce.

In 2016, Chan was catapulted to stardom when his stall was just one of three street-food vendors awarded a coveted Michelin star – a distinction once reserved for only the greatest of haute cuisine. His US$2.25 signature dish was dubbed the world’s cheapest Michelin-star meal.

Chan Hong Meng at the Michelin Guide Singapore’s unveiling in 2016, in which his food stall, Hawker Chan, was awarded one star. Photo: AFP

At his tiny stall, at 78 Smith Street in Singapore’s Chinatown Complex Market and Food Centre, Chan says customers queued for up to five hours for a taste of his food.

“I became a celebrity overnight. The whole world knew about me and my food. It’s a childhood dream that came true,” Chan says.

Chan posing in front of one of his stalls in 2016. He says earning a Michelin star was a dream come true. Photo: AFP

But five years later, Michelin took away Chan’s star. It came as a shock to many food lovers around the world – but not Chan. He knew his time in the limelight would eventually come to an end.

“When I lost the star, I didn’t give up. Whether or not I have the star, life moves on. It doesn’t mean that I’ll get angry or cry,” he says.

Chan persevered. Just a year after his flagship stall lost its Michelin star, his nearby casual offshoot earned a place in Michelin’s Bib Gourmand list – which recognises the best food served at “a reasonable price”.

I want people to think of chicken rice when it comes to Singapore food, and Hawker Chan when it comes to chicken rice

Chan Hong Meng

“The Bib Gourmand gives me the motivation that my food is on the right track, and that we’re not losing our direction,” Chan says.

Today, plates of Chan’s chicken rice are still selling like hot cakes. Hawker Chan has since become a global brand, with dozens of stalls in Singapore and locations around the world including in Australia, China and Kazakhstan.

Chan estimates that his outlets collectively serve 1,000 meals a day. And he’s not done expanding his brand – this month Hawker Chan is heading to India to host a pop-up restaurant.

Since being awarded a Michelin star, Hawker Chan has expanded to many places around the world, including China and even Kazakhstan. Photo: AFP

“I want people to continue eating Hawker Chan for generations, all over the world,” Chan says, adding that he “wants people to think of chicken rice when it comes to Singapore food, and Hawker Chan when it comes to chicken rice”.

After working in the industry for almost 40 years, Chan is no stranger to criticism. In recent years, food critics and patrons have noted a drop in standards in Chan’s food.

“If you catch Mr Chan during his shift at the original stall, you’ll find that the food is still great and the price cheap. But the outlets are pretty bad – overpriced and honestly not up to standard,” food lover Jeanette Lee says.

In recent years, Chan has received criticism about his food standards, but the chef says he takes it all in his stride. Photo: AFP

“Your humble mom-and-pop recipe has to be so well replicated. I think they failed because they just cut and paste,” Singapore food critic KF Seetoh says.

But Chan reassures his critics that his recipe and how he prepares his dishes remain the same as when he first received the Michelin star.

“All the chicken is made in-house, and only sauces are made in a centralised kitchen and disseminated to the outlets. Dishes are cooked every few hours, in batches, for freshness,” he says.

“Some people like my food, others don’t. I take all criticism in my stride.”