Mouthing Off

Salt in tea? US chemist’s China-inspired advice to make the perfect cup causes brew-haha in Britain – but she might have a point

Michelle Francl’s tip to add salt to tea to make it smoother and less bitter – inspired by an ancient Chinese manuscript – did not go down well in Britain

Some now common uses of salt initially seemed counterintuitive: think of sea salt on your chocolate or a pinch on desserts like ice cream to boost its sweetness

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A US chemist’s advice to add a pinch of salt to tea or coffee to make them less bitter has not gone down well with British traditionalists. Photo: Shutterstock

Andrew Sun has dabbled in many shades of the media spectrum for 25 years, from college radio, TV, print and online columnist to starting film festivals, managing music labels and authoring food books.

Published: 7:45am, 31 Jan 2024

In case you didn’t hear, last week an American chemist stirred up quite a tempest in teapots across Great Britain.

Michelle Francl, a professor in the state of Pennsylvania, published a book called Steeped: The Chemistry of Tea. The science-based tome expounds on molecules and atomic structure and engages in a meticulous analysis of caffeine and enzymes, the genus of flora leaves, and the temperature of water used in the brewing process.

It all sounds real boring to me – except for one part in chapter six.

Francl noted that sodium ions in salt can block our receptors for bitterness. “So if you put a tiny bit of salt in – not enough to taste – you make the cup of tea or coffee smoother and less bitter,” she wrote.

The British love their tea – but perhaps the reaction to Francl’s advice was a touch undignified. Photo: Shutterstock

When this reached BBC radio hosts and UK tea traditionalists, they freaked out. Outraged and insulted, they scoffed at this sacrilegious proposal, from an American, no less. Naturally, there was a complete overreaction to the brew-haha.