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Food and Drinks
LifestyleFood & Drink

Hokkaido artisan cheese makers on a roll, but can theirs hold a candle to European kinds?

  • Cheese from Hokkaido, Japan, is finding fans and winning awards, raising hopes it can take its place alongside French and Italian varieties

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A selection of Hokkaido cheeses at high-end Tokyo restaurant The Blue Room.  Cheeses from Japan’s northernmost main island are growing in popularity. Photo: Lisa Cam
Lisa Cam

Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost main island, is renowned for its dairy products, from creamy milk to cheesecake, cheese tarts and cheese-flavoured snacks that have become popular souvenirs.

But while Hokkaido cheese is now commonly found on the shelves of high-end supermarkets, it remains a niche choice when it comes to cheese platters, with French and Italian cheeses still more popular.

This isn’t because it lacks quality.

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The cool climate of Hokkaido, with its long, harsh winters and mild summers, creates an ideal environment for dairy farming. The vast, fertile plains provide ample space for cows to graze, and they produce high-quality milk for cheese making.
Chestnut Hokkaido milk pudding at a Hong Kong restaurant. Hokkaido dairy products are well renowned internationally.
Chestnut Hokkaido milk pudding at a Hong Kong restaurant. Hokkaido dairy products are well renowned internationally.

The island’s dairy farmers prioritise animal welfare, ensuring their cows are healthy and not stressed; this affects the quality of their milk and, consequently, that of the cheese.

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