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Kylie Knott

French chef Franckelie Laloum spent his childhood surrounded by fresh food in Provence, in the south of France, where his father ran a bistro.
There was no such thing as a can opener, in their eyes. Food was eaten fresh, like the cherries that he devoured until his lips and clothes were stained red.
“Maybe I ate too many cherries as a child because today I’m allergic to them,” says Laloum.
Now Laloum is bringing that focus on quality fresh produce to Lala, a French restaurant he is opening near Hong Kong’s SoHo district on February 8 with hospitality visionary Michael Larkin.

Laloum’s respect for culinary traditions is reflected in Lala’s menu, which includes French classics such as vol-au-vent, pâté en croûte, and frog’s legs.
Other dishes include Angus beef tenderloin flambé with kampot pepper sauce, and charcoal grilled turbot with Hollandaise sauce.
“French cuisine has such a rich history, but some of the classic dishes, with their heavier flavours and rich creams, don’t suit today’s palates,” says Laloum.
On the eve of Lunar New Year, Laloum and Larkin – the first two letters of their surnames provide the playful and easy-to-pronounce inspiration for Lala – talk passionately about their new venture. But in a display of their true hospitality colours, first it is time to eat.
First up is a vol-au-vent – not a bite-size canapé that gives off 70s hors d’oeuvre vibes but a towering vessel of flaky pastry filled with sweetbreads and plump langoustines.
Also juicy are the frog’s legs smothered in a vibrant green sauce of parsley and garlic, while the pièce de résistance is a beautifully constructed poultry pâté en croûte wrapped in a golden brown crust.

Allowing premium ingredients to shine is what Lala is all about, says Laloum.
“We source our langoustines from New Zealand, the truffles from France, the caviar from China and beef from Australia.
“We’re not reinventing French cuisine but celebrating it by creating a space where great food meets a relaxed vibe, making French dining more approachable, and perfect for every day, not just special occasions.”
Lala is the first restaurant venture for Laloum, who polished his craft at the prestigious three-Michelin-star Maison Pic in Valence, southern France, under Anne-Sophie Pic, whose restaurants have a combined 10 Michelin stars, more than any other led by a female chef.
Laloum was also chef de cuisine at Jade on 36 at the Pudong Shangri-La hotel in Shanghai when the restaurant earned a spot on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. At Azure 45 at The Ritz-Carlton Tokyo, Laloum led the restaurant to its first Michelin star.
When we were conceiving this concept, it was important that it was not an intimidating fine-dining place that you only go to on a special occasion
Michael Larkin, co-founder of Lala
While his food journey has taken him from France to Turkey, Japan and Bali, Hong Kong has a strong pull, a reason why in 2019 he joined Louise, co-founded by Jia Group’s Yenn Wong and chef Julien Royer, the chef behind Singapore fine-dining hotspot Odette.
Louise was awarded its first Michelin star just six months after opening and retained it for five consecutive years.
It has an impressive track record, and Laloum is happy to pass on his knowledge of French cuisine.
“If any of the staff ask me for a recipe, well yes, of course I will share it – and I hope they will give the recipe to somebody else,” he says. “I’ve been lucky enough to have been trained by some amazing chefs. It would be a shame if I did not pass this on.”
Laloum is aware of a shift in Hong Kong’s culinary landscape that has people craving elevated food but in a more relaxed setting.
Adapting to market trends and customer preferences, he says, is vital to survival in the fickle food and beverage industry. Larkin agrees.

“When we were conceiving this concept, it was important that it was not an intimidating fine-dining place that you only go to on a special occasion.” Lala, he says, is for everyone, for all occasions.
“Do you want a nice business lunch, or maybe an intimate dinner on a Friday night with the girlfriend, or maybe you want to bring your family on a Sunday … we want to hit all these different marks,” says Larkin.
“The diners still appreciate good food and good service, but maybe they want to come wearing shorts,” says Larkin, adjusting his stylish silk pocket square.
Attention to detail is vital, and Larkin makes sure he does not miss a trick by following his own 3,000-point pre-opening checklist.
Hospitality is in his blood: after the fall of communism in Romania, his parents opened the first Irish pub in Bucharest in 1994. The early exposure laid the foundation for a career that has taken him around the world.

And that includes Hong Kong, where he worked with Jia Group, the company behind dining hotspots Louise and Ando, before co-founding award-winning concepts such as Quality Goods Club and Artifact Bar.
Also on board at Lala is pastry chef Natalie Leung, who spent three years working with Laloum at Louise.
“Natalie is very talented, and she wants to learn and grow,” he says, adding that desserts will be brought to the table in a traditional French way, using a silver tray.
In another example of adapting to changing times, Lala will offer an alternative drinks menu that caters to diners who have adopted an alcohol-free lifestyle. Details are still under wraps.

“I’m a drinker – I’m French, I drink wine – but fewer people are drinking so we are doing an alternate programme, something special, but I don’t want mocktails,” says Laloum, who himself is partial to an Old Fashioned, a cocktail comprising bourbon whiskey, angostura bitters, sugar, and a garnish of orange peel.
Lala makes a good one, the classic drink a perfect pairing with the art deco-style bar.
Larkin says the aim was to create a bar catering to all tastes, whether it is a glass of champagne or a cocktail. “Think hotel bar vibes, but without the hotel!” he says with a laugh.
It is all part of Lala’s plan to cater for everything from intimate dinners in a cosy corner to a bustling table for a celebration. A fun mural by Hong Kong-based French artist Elsa Jeandedieu adds to the experience.
“I want to introduce a new generation to the beauty of French cooking, making it approachable, fun and perfect for every day,” says Laloum.


Lala, 29 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong, tel: 2506 0990


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Food & Drink

Lala’s co-owners, French chef Franckelie Laloum and hospitality veteran Michael Larkin, talk about their concept of relaxed fine dining


Lala’s co-owners, French chef Franckelie Laloum and hospitality veteran Michael Larkin, talk about their concept of relaxed fine dining.


Hong Kong chefs

Fine French cuisine with a casual vibe at Lala restaurant, opening in Hong Kong

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Lala’s co-owners, French chef Franckelie Laloum and hospitality veteran Michael Larkin, talk about their concept of relaxed fine dining

Lala’s co-owners, French chef Franckelie Laloum and hospitality veteran Michael Larkin, talk about their concept of relaxed fine dining