Why new Hong Kong restaurant Jean-Pierre in Central focuses on French bistro classics

Opportunity can come knocking at any time. For chef John Troupis, it came almost two decades ago while he was clearing tables at a restaurant in St Louis, in the US state of Missouri. The then 14-year-old was working as a busboy when, on a particularly busy night, the dishwasher failed to show up. Troupis offered to fill in and found that the kitchen, unlike the front of house, was hectic and stressful. He was hooked. Around the same time, he had his mind blown by The French Laundry Cookbook, a beautifully photographed tome comprising 150 recipes that was co-written by the restaurant’s chef and owner, Thomas Keller. “I picked it up in a bookstore and had to take a step back because I had never seen that kind of sophistication in my life,” says Troupis, now 31. This combination of subtle moments convinced him that a chef’s life was what he wanted – and he was going to do whatever it took to make it happen. “When I committed to that, I just said, ‘You know, I want to work for the best people that I can.’” After studying culinary arts at the Schoolcraft College in Michigan, Troupis worked at a restaurant called Forest in the same state, followed by stints at New York restaurants Betony and Keller’s Michelin-star Per Se. International experience followed at Victor’s Fine Dining by Christian Bau, in Germany. In 2019 he headed for Asia, starting at Hong Kong’s then two-Michelin-star fine-dining gem Amber. Next came Michelin-star Belon, where he worked alongside chef and long-time friend Matthew Kirkley, before a stint at Cristal Room by Anne-Sophie Pic. Now Troupis and Kirkley have reunited to open Jean-Pierre under the umbrella of Hong Kong food and beverage behemoth Black Sheep Restaurants. Sandwiched between PMQ and Bar Leone in Central, Jean-Pierre pays homage to the romance and revelry of traditional Parisian bistros. “Everything today feels contemporary, so at Jean-Pierre we’ve stripped it back to something that’s sincere,” Troupis says. The menu has eight options each for starters, main courses and desserts. “It’s a return to good, honest cooking.” Expect French bistro classics such as steak tartare, duck confit, onion soup, escargots with garlic and parsley, and a hearty boeuf bourguignon. Desserts include profiteroles, a boozy baba au rhum (rum-soaked cake) and crêpes Suzette that are flambéed at the table. I want to make this restaurant healthy and sustainable, cook good food, make sure the staff and guests are happy – that’s the plan John Troupis The classic bistro feel runs deep in the decor, with art-deco-style lamps and bevel-edged mirrors scattered among dark mahogany furniture and banquettes with lashings of red velvet. The main dining area seats around 70 and includes an elevated table at its heart that is perfect for diners who like being the centre of attention. Drinks can also be sipped on the outdoor terrace. As for the name, that comes from the father of Black Sheep Restaurants’ managing director, Marc Hofmann. Hofmann, who grew up in the city of Lille in northern France, says family dinners growing up were an event: “More than just cooking, it was a performance.” And his father, Jean-Pierre, a skilled raconteur and “the ultimate host”, was the main player. “Growing up in a family of three young boys, and the fights over food that came with that, my father Jean-Pierre used to often tell us, ‘Everything at the table is for everyone,’” Hofmann says. “In that spirit, we want each course to feel generous and communal, and to let the food be the starting point, rather than the focal point, of a really great evening.” The poulet de Simone, an ode to the classic roasted bird that has been reimagined with Hong Kong’s yellow chicken, is filled with sentiment: the stuffing of mushrooms, tarragon and spinach honours the much-loved recipe of Hofmann’s grandmother, Simone. Personal touches extend beyond the menu, with framed photos of Jean-Pierre, along with knick-knacks sourced from Hofmann’s childhood home, scattered throughout the space. For Troupis, helming a bistro serving classic French cuisine is a dream come true. The American is a huge fan of French gastronomy’s grand masters, from the soulful techniques of soufflé king Jacques Pépin to the uncompromising standards of Joël Robuchon. Other inspirations include Fernand Point, who is considered the father of modern French cuisine; Pierre Koffmann, who for decades has followed a recipe of simplicity and precision; and Julia Child, an American chef, author and TV personality who made French cuisine accessible to Americans. In an age of constant reinvention, Troupis has gone in the opposite direction by mastering the fundamentals that many of his generation have bypassed. He says that in a rush to be different, many have ended up being the same. “That is kind of where it seems to be stuck today,” he says. “Everything looks similar.” When not in the kitchen, Troupis loves hanging out at home with his pastry chef partner and new puppy and flicking through the pages of cookbooks, particularly those celebrating recipes from the 1970s and ’80s. Nouvelle cuisine particularly resonates with him, a movement in French gastronomy that emerged in the 1970s with a focus on small, light dishes and presentation. Whether it is a roast chicken wearing frilly paper socks that look like tiny chef hats – “I call them bootees” – or flower-shaped lemons accompanying a sole meunière, there is no doubt that Troupis is fully embracing all things retro. “I just bought a bunch of books on Thai fruit carving, so I might apply some of those techniques,” he says, adding he would love to have elaborate platters on display at the bar that showcase culinary craftsmanship. Jean-Pierre’s wine selection, curated by head sommeliers Jean-Baptiste Copot and Nicolas Eyquem, is also impressive, covering everything from grand cru bottles to a Languedoc wine on tap – the first in Hong Kong, Troupis says. Those feeling generous can splurge on the Tournée Jean-Pierre that, for HK$4,888 (US$630), involves buying a glass of champagne for every guest in the restaurant. Guests can also prop themselves up at the marble hour-glass-shaped bar to enjoy cocktails such as a Chambord (raspberry liqueur) margarita, a café Francais (a French spin on an Irish coffee) and a cornichon pickle martini, all created by mixologist Suraj Gurung. Catering to a growing trend for non-alcoholic drinks, Jean-Pierre also serves a raspberry margarita with zero-proof tequila, and an elderberry gimlet with zero-proof gin. Bar menu items include burgers, crispy fries and a classic croque monsieur – or madame, if you fancy it with an egg. While Jean-Pierre exudes “date-night destination” vibes, Troupis wants people to swing by for casual post-work snacks and drinks, too. “We want to be the place where you can stop and have a burger, a croque monsieur, or a drink – kind of like your separation between work and going home,” he says. But most of all, Troupis wants to make people happy. “I want to make this restaurant healthy and sustainable, cook good food, make sure the staff and guests are happy – that’s the plan.” Jean-Pierre, 9 Bridges St, Central, Hong Kong

Why new Hong Kong restaurant Jean-Pierre in Central focuses on French bistro classics

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}Chef John Troupis talks about the new member of the Black Sheep Restaurants family, which pays homage to traditional Parisian bistros

Chef John Troupis talks about the new member of the Black Sheep Restaurants family, which pays homage to traditional Parisian bistros