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Food and Drinks
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Typhoon shelter crab, Hong Kong seafood dish made with garlic, chilli and dab of nostalgia

Veteran Hong Kong chef shares how to enjoy the fried seafood dish as we look at its origin in floating villages and 5 restaurants serving it

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A floating restaurant chef hands over a plate of typhoon shelter crab in Causeway Bay in 1995. The quintessential Hong Kong dish has an interesting history. Photo: SCMP
Kylie Knott

Yeung Yan-chi knows his way around a crab. In his nearly 30 years as head chef of Bamboo Village restaurant, in Kowloon’s Jordan neighbourhood, he estimates he has prepared about 60,000 of them.

These days, the Hong Kong-born 64-year-old works in a front-of-house role at the restaurant, a position that is less demanding on his body. But the vast knowledge he accumulated over the years has stayed with him.

That includes the skills needed to prepare typhoon shelter-style spicy fried crab, one of Bamboo Village’s signature dishes and a Hong Kong classic.
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“I started as a chef at Bamboo Village in 1988 and the spicy crab has always been a favourite dish with diners,” Yeung says when we meet just before the dinner rush.

Mud crab expert Yan Chi-yeung has worked at Bamboo Village restaurant in Hong Kong’s Jordan neighbourhood since 1988. Photo: Kylie Knott
Mud crab expert Yan Chi-yeung has worked at Bamboo Village restaurant in Hong Kong’s Jordan neighbourhood since 1988. Photo: Kylie Knott

He says mud crabs from Vietnam are best suited to the dish, holding one up to reveal its mottled green armour that, when exposed to heat, turns a reddish orange.

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Weighing about 1.5kg (3.3lbs) on average, the crabs are sourced from the mangrove forests of central Vietnam, where salty seawater meets fresh river water.

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