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Andrew Sun

Mouthing OffWhy Noma chef Rene Redzepi’s downfall won’t spark a revolution against bad kitchen bosses

Redzepi’s abuse at Noma is inexcusable but a #MeToo-style movement is unlikely among restaurant staff accustomed to pressure-cooker kitchens

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Rene Redzepi in Kyoto ahead of a Noma pop-up in the Japanese city. The chef-owner of the three-Michelin-star Copenhagen restaurant recently resigned after being accused of abusing his staff. While his behaviour is hard to defend, it is unlikely to spark a revolution against bad kitchen bosses. Photo: Noma
Noma chef Rene Redzepi’s downfall has been surprising and sudden. But for those who expected the rest of the restaurant industry to take up arms against a sea of troubling egos, a rain check might be in order.

Redzepi’s fastidious micro-herb fine-dining dishes, which required many hours to prepare and were served with performative explanations, are not exactly my idea of deliciousness. I certainly wouldn’t pay US$1,500 (HK$11,700) for a meal, which is what his empire’s current Los Angeles pop-up is charging.

But this Danish prince of dining’s fall from grace brings me no pleasure.

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Sure, it is hard to defend those humiliating and abusing – psychologically and/or physically – workers and interns, especially when I read how he punched his staff and prodded them with forks. But the movement against Redzepi was led by a very senior former associate, Jason Ignacio White, which makes me think this is more a grudge than a groundswell. Also, I’m assuming people stayed at Noma – a three-Michelin-star, world’s best restaurant – because they wanted the résumé bump.
Noma’s former fermentation lab head Jason Ignacio White (centre) stands in front of Noma with restaurant workers holding signs condemning head chef Rene Redzepi. Photo: AFP
Noma’s former fermentation lab head Jason Ignacio White (centre) stands in front of Noma with restaurant workers holding signs condemning head chef Rene Redzepi. Photo: AFP

Yet, the revelations have not yet opened a #MeToo-style floodgate of uprisings against other major chefs known to be hot-headed. There are lots of other Michelin-star restaurant heroes who are well known to be hot-headed. But no dominoes are falling; instead, there’s just deafening silence.

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Obviously, there is a big grey zone between kitchen exploitation and corporal training. Most cooks who are serious about their pursuit go through a rigorous training regimen, with military-style discipline and brutal mentorship – and many really appreciate the journey afterwards.

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