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Mouthing Off
Andrew Sun

Nobody can cook seafood like the Chinese – certainly not celebrity chef Rick Stein

After watching Rick Stein overcook a crab on his travel show, Andrew Sun argues why Chinese – specifically Cantonese – seafood is best

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Typhoon shelter crab at Bamboo Village restaurant in Hong Kong. Overcooking seafood is common, but Chinese methods, like stir-frying and steaming, preserve delicate flavours. Photo: Kylie Knott
Andrew Sun has dabbled in many shades of the media spectrum for 25 years, from college radio, TV, print and online columnist to starting film festivals, managing music labels and authoring food books.

There might be plenty of fish in the sea, but not everyone knows what to do with them.

Recently, I was watching a Rick Stein travel show in which the British cook toured around Australia. In one segment highlighting fresh Aussie seafood, he suggested making a Chinese-inspired stir-fried crab.

While extolling the produce, Stein attempted a stir-fry with the crustacean, infusing it with aromatics like ginger, spring onion and chillies. It should have been a quick, simple preparation, but it ended up a plodding, overcomplicated dish no sane home cook would want to dabble in.
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Normally, I enjoy Stein’s programmes. He is not pretentious, nor a culinary showboat. But in this unfortunate instance, he cooked the hell out of his crab.

First, it was pre-boiled off-screen. Then he dredged the pieces in corn starch and dropped them into hot oil. After flash-frying, he finished it by stir-frying in a wok. Yes, he cooked the crab three times!

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Whatever delicate texture the meat might have had, I am sure it was rubberised by the time it was plated. I felt embarrassed by how the ingredient and the Chinese techniques were mangled.

British chef Rick Stein in Sydney, Australia. Photo: Instagram/ricksteinatcoogeebeach
British chef Rick Stein in Sydney, Australia. Photo: Instagram/ricksteinatcoogeebeach
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