Reunion-born chef Philippe Orrico happy to be his own boss at Upper
After a culinary journey that has taken him from Reunion to Europe, and on a roller-coaster ride with the Michelin guide, chef Philippe Orrico is happy to be his own boss
Philippe Orrico, chef director of new bistro Upper, feels totally at home in Hong Kong, a city in which he has gained and lost a Michelin star. Even so, he has retained an attitude to cooking and ingredients that stems from his upbringing in a French colony and his training in France, which includes work at Michelin-star restaurants.
Orrico's Michelin star experience in Hong Kong started with a two-year stint at Pierre at the Mandarin Oriental and continued when he left his mentor Pierre Gagnaire to run the four restaurants at Hullett House, the renovated marine police headquarters in Tsim Sha Tsui. Gaining his first star for St George, a French restaurant, fulfilled an ambition.
The disappointment he felt when the star was withdrawn hurt him deeply, especially as the reason for the withdrawal was a mystery. Despite two meetings with Michelin representatives, he feels they have not given him an adequate explanation for the restaurant's removal from the guide.
Despite the setback, Orrico has moved on to open a bistro in Sheung Wan, an area that reminds him of the East Village in New York, with its mix of trendy art galleries and bars.
The well-travelled Orrico grew up on the island of Reunion, a French possession close to southern Africa and Madagascar. Reunion is host to five communities: Chinese from Hong Kong and Guangzhou; Indians from Malabar on the west coast; Muslims from Pakistan and Saudi Arabia; and black Africans from the east of the continent, especially Kenya.
These communities have each brought their own ingredients with them to Reunion: spices from India; rice as a staple (which it is generally not in Africa), and many Chinese ingredients. "There is always some special soy sauce in my fridge," says Orrico.