New | Chateau Margaux experiments with greener techniques as weather warms
Blended Concerns about the environment have prompted Chateau Margaux to experiment with organic and biodynamic techniques, writes Mischa Moselle
Has the heat gone to Paul Pontallier's head? He has a PhD in oenology and is managing director of 400-year-old Chateau Margaux, one of Bordeaux's five first growths, and one of the world's most iconic wines. But he is experimenting with organic and biodynamic viticulture. He's even contemplating dropping corks in favour of screw caps - in another 20 years' time.
Pontallier is worried about the environment and the possible impact of global warming and is also driven by a commitment to constantly improving the wine at the chateau. Clearly, he does not want to alienate his customer base - he has held seminars and tastings with wine professionals and writers in Margaux's leading markets of London, New York, the Napa Valley and now Hong Kong, explaining his experiments and canvassing opinions on the results so far.
About 15 per cent of the chateau's production is sold in Hong Kong and on the mainland. Noted fans include former chief secretary Henry Tang Ying-yen.
Pontallier has even hired Norman Foster to design new buildings at the chateau. At its centre will be a research and development facility that will house 40 vats, so that experimental crops can be vinified in larger quantities than present.
As the chateau says it wishes to share its research and be transparent about its findings, the walls of the test facility will be made out of glass.
Given the global influence of Bordeaux winemaking styles and the longevity of the wines, any changes could have a far-reaching impact. Pontallier cannot afford to make a mistake.