The TCM health benefits of mountain begonia, from detoxing the body to expelling heat

Nestled at the far western end of Hong Kong’s Lantau Island is Tai O, a fishing village famous for its stilt houses, sun-dried salted egg yolks and shrimp paste. A lesser-known product found in the tight-knit community is a drink made with mountain begonia (Begonia fimbristipula Hance), a plant native to southeastern China. Flowering in May and fruiting in June, the tiny but resilient perennial plant can be found growing in cliff crevices and on damp rocks in mountain forests. In traditional Chinese medicine (TCM), the mountain begonia is a valuable medicinal herb that is most commonly consumed as a herbal tea. It has several reputed health benefits, from reducing inflammation to eliminating phlegm. Another claim is that it cools the body, so on a sweltering day in June, with the temperature in Tai O hovering around 32 degrees Celsius (90 degrees Fahrenheit), the reddish-brown drink with a subtle floral, bittersweet flavour is the perfect tonic. Unlike the mountain begonia drink sold by Hong Kong herbal tea chain Hung Fook Tong, the Tai O version comes in clear, label-free bottles without any clue as to its ingredients. That is because many home brews use secret recipes that have been passed down through generations, says Tai O resident Lily Wong. “Each has a slightly different recipe,” says Wong as she fills a cool box with bottles of home-made drinks. Wong operates Tai O Bakery, a family business that has been operating from the same spot on Kat Hing Street for more than 40 years. The bakery, famous for its fluffy, handmade, deep-fried sugar doughnuts, also sells a mountain begonia drink that Wong was taught to make by her mother, who, in turn, was taught by her mother. “The mountain begonia drink is refreshing, which is why it is highly sought after by hikers and visitors, especially during the hot summer months,” says Wong. She says the ingredients are a secret, although she is happy to disclose two: begonia leaves, sourced from a supplier who delivers to Tai Po, and mountain hawthorn, also known as shan zha (Crataegus pinnatifida). The latter is a plant that, according to TCM, helps improve digestion and blood circulation. Preparing the drink is simple, says Wong: wash and soak the dried ingredients with water and, once rehydrated, boil them for 1½ to two hours. “The next step is to filter the herbs and any impurities, and then refrigerate it.” The drink is best served chilled. Ripple Cheuk was born in Tai O and runs Grandma’s Tofu Pudding, a dessert shop that has been serving its signature silky smooth tofu for more than 80 years. Cheuk took over the business from her grandfather, and while tofu is popular with customers, she also makes and sells a mountain begonia drink. “I boil the leaves and then add sugar,” says Cheuk, holding a bag containing balls of begonia leaves that she sourced from a herbal shop in Hong Kong’s Central neighbourhood. TCM has been used for thousands of years to prevent, diagnose and treat disease, with the earliest records of its use dating to the Shang dynasty (1600BC-1050BC). While there is a growing global movement to integrate the field of TCM with Western medicine, many of its principles and treatments lack robust scientific evidence. This is the case with mountain begonia – while its traditional use is widespread, scientific research supporting its medicinal benefits is still developing. Most of the reputed health claims come from historical texts. Habitat destruction and the deterioration of local ecosystems also pose major challenges for the species’ survival. In 2023, the plant was designated as a protected wild species in Guangdong, a coastal province in southern China. Hong Kong-based TCM practitioner Elizabeth Yau says the herb has numerous health benefits and is a perfect drink to beat the heat. “It possesses heat-clearing and detoxifying properties that help expel pathogenic heat and internal toxins,” says Yau, who claims it also reduces inflammation and swelling, and aids in healing sores, abscesses and heat-related skin conditions. Yau says a herbal tea infusion is the most common way to ingest the plant. The dried leaves are brewed or lightly boiled to create a sweet-sour cooling tea. “It is especially popular in the Lingnan region [south China], where locals often decoct it with sugar as a traditional summer drink,” she says. She adds that, unlike many herbs, it is not typically used in cooking. “Its cooling nature and sour-sweet taste make it more suitable for medicinal use as a herbal tea or herbal medicine, rather than as a cooking ingredient.” In Tai O, one place has given the mountain begonia a modern and very sweet twist. The Tai O Heritage Hotel, on a small hill at the end of Tai O, is a charming colonial-style building that was built in 1902. A former police station, the Grade II-listed historic building is surrounded by lush greenery with views stretching out over the South China Sea. “Hong Kong is blessed with a diverse range of local produce, so at the Tai O Heritage Hotel, we seek to add a touch of local flavours to our dishes,” says Melanie Kwok, the deputy general manager of sustainability and innovation at the Hong Kong Heritage Conservation Foundation, which operates the hotel. At the hotel’s glass-roofed Tai O Lookout restaurant, the mountain begonia has been woven into the menu, including in the Mangrove Special, a drink that combines the essence of the mountain begonia with apple juice and lemon juice. “It is popular with guests after a long hike in the neighbourhood,” says Kwok. A popular route is the Tung O Ancient Trail, a 15km (9.3-mile) coastal walk that starts in the town of Tung Chung on the northwestern coast of Lantau Island and ends in Tai O. But it is the restaurant’s dessert menu that best showcases the ingredient, with dishes such as mountain begonia cheesecake and mountain begonia egg waffle with ice cream – a playful twist on Hong Kong’s classic street food. “The dish marries the crispy yet fluffy texture of waffle with the delicate floral notes of mountain begonia, perfectly complemented by creamy ice cream,” Kwok says. Each dish, she adds, is not just a celebration of the unique ingredient but highlights the cultural significance of Tai O flavours. “For generations, the inhabitants and fishermen of Tai O have been preserving local delicacies, making the area renowned for its natural resources and indigenous flavours. “Shrimp paste, salted eggs and mountain begonia are some of the most celebrated local ingredients, and we have incorporated them into our menu.” Honouring local ingredients such as the mountain begonia is important, she says. “It connects us to our roots and the rich cultural tapestry of Tai O and Hong Kong. “By featuring these local ingredients, we wish to celebrate the culinary traditions that have been passed down through generations with locals and tourists, preserving the intangible cultural heritage of our community. “Promoting local ingredients fosters sustainability, ensures food freshness, supports the local economy and encourages the appreciation of Hong Kong’s unique flavours.” As with any medication, Yau says it is best to consult a licensed TCM practitioner “to determine whether this herb is appropriate for your specific constitution and condition”. The mountain begonia, especially when taken in an intense TCM form, is not suitable for everyone, she says. “Its cold nature may aggravate symptoms such as bloating, diarrhoea or poor appetite. Even when taken as a tea, prolonged use without guidance can weaken digestion.” Those with underlying kidney or spleen yang deficiency – when these organs lack “warming” energy – should not drink it to avoid digestive diseases, as should pregnant women, says Yau. “Due to its cooling and blood-moving properties, it may pose a risk of uterine stimulation for pregnant women, and it should be avoided unless prescribed by a qualified practitioner. “Women suffering from heavy menstrual bleeding or cramps should avoid this herb as it may worsen it.” She adds that people with allergies or a sensitivity to begonia species or similar herbal plants should also give it a miss.

The TCM health benefits of mountain begonia, from detoxing the body to expelling heat

.css-1c6uqr6{color:inherit;font-weight:inherit;font-size:inherit;font-family:inherit;line-height:inherit;overflow-wrap:break-word;}A traditional Chinese medicine expert and vendors of mountain begonia drinks in Hong Kong’s Tai O village tell all about the ingredient

A traditional Chinese medicine expert and vendors of mountain begonia drinks in Hong Kong’s Tai O village tell all about the ingredient