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High jewellers and watchmakers devise secret watches that hide the time behind bejewelled animals and flowers

In vogue during the 1930s and 1940s when women were thought to have no need to tell the time, secret watches have made a comeback in the past few years.

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Bulgari Serpenti Haute Joaillerie bracelet watch
Gaynor Thomas

There may be nothing more delicious than a secret, especially when it’s encrusted in gems.

Back when women were thought to have no need to tell the time, watchmakers and jewellers would conceal a watch in a bracelet, ring or a pendant necklace merely as a design whim. Secret watches were in vogue during the 1930s and 1940s, and they have made a comeback in the past few years.

Piaget Limelight Secret Watch
Piaget Limelight Secret Watch
Piaget has a tradition of secret watches, and its Piaget Rose, available in white or pink gold, features a snow-set diamond rose on its 35mm case, set with a large diamond at its centre. The central petals form the lid, which flips up to show a simple dial.
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Even more breathtaking is Piaget’s Limelight Secret Watch, which is a confection of diamonds inspired by nature. The white-gold case and band overflow with marquise, pear-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds. The hinged lid, in the form of two diamond leaves, reveals either a mother-of-pearl dial or a diamond-set dial.

Also in the Limelight collection is a contemporary secret watch with ribbons of diamonds coiling around a brown satin strap. Moving aside the central portion of the diamond ribbons reveals a mother-of-pearl and diamond marquetry dial. The Limelight Ribbon Motif Secret Watch is in 18ct rose gold set with 301 brilliant-cut diamonds.

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Breguet Secret de la Reine
Breguet Secret de la Reine
Breguet created a stir with its Secret de la Reine watch in 18ct white or rose gold set with 432 brilliant-cut diamonds, a hand-carved cameo and a diamond-set dial. The cameo is a white rose; pressing on it moves the piece aside to reveal the dial with its striking blue hands. The cameo is surrounded by petal-like scallops, and the whole design is carried by a soft “cloth” of gold.
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