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Five of the best Hong Kong hidden private kitchens

Did you know you can eat Afghan in Clear Water Bay, French in Fanling, or Hakka in Sha Lo Tung? We talk to five culinary entrepreneurs about why they like to serve others and what's involved

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Nanroku Club. Photos: Jonathan Wong
Elaine Yauin Beijing

In the world of private kitchens, it's often whom - not what - you know that matters. While a great number of these cosy dining venues have mushroomed across the city in industrial buildings and walk-up flats in old urban areas over the past two decades, there are still some that fly under the radar. We track down five of these hidden gems, all located in far-flung corners of the New Territories that serve fresh, delicious home-made food.

 

Nanroku Club, Sai Kung

Sitting on a tatami mat in his Japanese-styled dining room, Alan Lam Wai-shun talks enthusiastically about eating kaiseki ryori. He explains the finer points of the culinary art form and how it developed into the haute cuisine of Japanese gastronomy.

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"Traditionally, a host would prepare some food for guests to appreciate with their tea. So kaiseki ryori consists of food in small portions. Soup is just two mouthfuls and rice comes in tiny amounts."

Despite the tradition, however, the fare offered at Nanroku has expanded to a 13-course feast that includes tomato with shochu (Japanese distilled alcohol), surf clam sake jelly, deboned tilefish tempura, shrimp with hairy cucumber and green bean soup.

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Sake white peach jelly.
Sake white peach jelly.
Shrimp with hairy cucumber and green bean soup.
Shrimp with hairy cucumber and green bean soup.
Tomato with shochu.
Tomato with shochu.
Surf clam sake jelly.
Surf clam sake jelly.

Lam trained at a local kaiseki ryori restaurant as a teenager before opening his own Japanese eatery in Jordan. When high rent forced him out of business a decade ago, he opened the private kitchen with his Japanese wife in their village house at Nam Wai in Sai Kung.

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