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Classic Hong Kong restaurants: Mak's Noodle Restaurant, Sheung Wan

Wonton noodle shop follows grandfather’s original recipe

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Chan Siu-lung prepares the popular all-shrimp wonton noodles (below). Photos: Edward Wong
Janice Leung Hayes

Among the many wonton noodle shops named “Mak’s” in Hong Kong, Mak’s Noodle Restaurant (Chung Kee) on Wing Kut Street in Sheung Wan is perhaps the oldest.

“All the Mak’s were opened by relatives of Mak Ngan,” says So Kong-shing, brother-in-law of Mak Chi-chung, the founder of Mak’s Chung Kee.

Mak Ngan was the nickname of Mak King-hung, who learned to make wonton noodles from his father, Mak Woon-chi, believed to be the inventor of wonton noodles as we know them today, with paperthin wrappers, shrimp filling and thin, bouncy noodles.

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Mak King-hung arrived in Hong Kong during the second world war, says So. Mak King-hung worked at a restaurant, where his wonton noodles were a big hit. After the restaurant closed in the 1960s, he set up his own dai pai dong on Gilman Street, where Mak Chichung would later work and learn his grandfather’s method.

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Mak King-hung retired in 1983 when the government offered him compensation for closing the dai pai dong. Mak Chi-chung set up shop on Wing Kut Street.

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