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63-degree-Celsius eggs with sautéed mushrooms, bisque and yuzu

New restaurant: ON Dining Kitchen & Lounge serves best pigeon in Hong Kong

PETER CHANG

(tel: 21748100) brings together a quartet of well-known personalities of the local F&B scene, anchored by chef Philippe Orrico of Upper Modern Bistro. The duplex venue atop a new building in Central offers gorgeous city views from the dining room and the lounge and outdoor terrace.

Chef Orrico's signature 63-degree-Celsius eggs with sautéed mushrooms, bisque and yuzu (above, HK$188) was warm and hearty with a wonderful balance of flavours - a dish not to be missed. Tourteau crab, lobster, vegetables and chilled potato sauce (from the set lunch menu) combined finely diced vegetables with the pure ocean flavours of shredded crab and lobster carpaccio, along with a refreshing chilled potato soup reminiscent of vichyssoise.

Quail and lobster pie with bisque sauce and piquillos (HK$428) delivered the richness of foie gras, quail and lobster with the kick of piquillo peppers, tempered by a side salad. Roasted pigeon with artichokes and lemon chutney (HK$398 for whole bird) was undoubtedly the best pigeon I have tasted in this city, with an incredibly tender and silky smooth texture and rich, full flavours. I would devour a second one if I had the stomach space.

Warm madeleines, served with a bowl of cinnamon-flavoured apple Chantilly (HK$128), were nice, while fresh mandarin, sorbet and tuile biscuit (HK$138) provided a tropical and refreshing end to the meal.

 

 

 

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