Deng G in Wan Chai menu boasts a range Sichuan’s spicy cuisine
Restaurant comprises two modest floors and includes a bar
A meal at Deng G is a lesson in spiciness, starting from the four sections of the menu: mala (mouth numbing), wula (peppery spice), lychee and yuxiang (fragrant fish) taste.
The recipes are from Sichuan-born, Chengdu-based chef Deng Huadong, after whom the restaurant is named. It is his second Deng G after one in Shanghai opened in 2007. The restaurant comprises two modest floors and includes a bar. There is a traditional Chinese vibe with bamboo motifs.
We started with sliced pork with garlic and chilli (HK$75), okra with ginger sauce (HK$70) and ox tongue and tripe medley (HK$75). One glance at pork slices smothered in angry red oil was enough to give the faint-hearted palpitations, but it was more flavourful than spicy. The meat was tender and the mild chilli oil gave it a kick. The same went for the tripe medley. The okra tasted bland after the pungency of the other starters.
We plunged into the la zui chicken (HK$168), braised beef in red chilli soup (HK$188) and the braised fish in red chilli soup (HK$238), smothered in Sichuan peppercorns and chilli, and crisply fried on the outside while retaining its tenderness inside. The braised fish was good but hadn’t cooked for long enough to absorb the flavours. The braised beef was the highlight of the night. It was a little salty but bursting with spicy Sichuan flavours and the glass noodles were an excellent foil.
We complemented this with the milder but no less excellent Yuxiang eggplant (HK$108) and the surprisingly aromatic braised baby cabbage with tofu and salted pork. The wild mushroom and gluten in clay pot ($110) was too starchy.
Deng G offered a good deal for quality fare at below HK$400 per head. But the service needs to improve.