Paris-based chef Frédéric Vardon has opened Michelin-starred Le 39V in Hong Kong, where traditional French dishes are cooked and presented with innovative flare. The décor is contemporary, and the 101st floor location offers sweeping views of the harbour. Executive chef Nicolas Raynal presents some delicious menu items. The pan-fried foie gras with grapefruit, grape and onion condiments (HK$390) was well balanced. Kristal gold caviar with smoked eel in a green velvety sauce (HK$470) was another amazing dish. The smoked eel was topped by Kaviari caviar and accompanied by roast potatoes with salted butter, Vitelotte potato chips and green dashi cubes of bonito broth, and white mushrooms mixed with nettle puree in jelly. My favourite dish was the roasted Bresse pigeon in tangy jus (HK$620). The pigeon was roasted with sage under the skin and served with roasted figs and aubergine with piquillos and espellet pepper sauce on the side. For dessert, we tried mixed fruit salad (HK$220) served with passion fruit jelly and vanilla broth and a grapefruit sorbet on the side. We also liked the Paris-Brest praline hazelnuts (HK$290). Dropped on a base of praline ice cream and wrapped in chopped hazelnuts, the puffs are stuffed with a light praline cream and house-made praline. The gluten-free chocolate soufflé is also a treat (HK$250).