FARE Cantonese cuisine. AMBIENCE On one side of the open-plan atrium basement, designed like at formal old-style water garden, diners walk over a bridge to get to the restaurant. COST HK$500 for two. WHO TO BRING Friends, family and colleagues. TURN-ONS All the dim sum is made in house and everything we tried was good. We loved the deep-fried taro dumplings with mushroom, the turnip cake with house-made XO sauce was one of my favourites, and steamed rice rolls with shrimps and leeks did not disappoint. The steamed shrimp dumplings and pork dumplings were also outstanding. I appreciate the fact that you can order a few morsels from the hotel’s northern Chinese restaurant, Dong Lai Shun, which is on the other side of the water garden. They prepare especially good pan-fried buns with mutton, a favourite northern Chinese dim sum. The bun was brown and crisp with tasty marinated minced lamb inside. We also liked the baked prawn in supreme broth served with pan-fried vermicelli. We also tried the poached seasonal vegetables in bouillon, deep-fried glutinous balls. For dessert, I would recommend the new winter melon with agar jelly and osmanthus sweet soup from Dong Lai Shun. It was the perfect way to cool down after something spicy, and a great way to finish lunch. TURN-OFFS It gets chilly like many hotel restaurants, so be sure to bring a jacket. DRINKS Chinese teas and soft drinks go best with dim sum.